When They’re Not So Good, They’re Great: Tomatoes (Part II)

Sunday, August 24, 2008

One of the “faults” (if it can be called that) of eating locally is a weakening of the critical eye.  Because of the health, economic, and environmental (not to mention moral) benefits of eating local, seasonal food, we tend to think of these foods in superlative terms only: all peaches are ripe and delicious; all green beans are tender and succulent; all tomatoes are ripe and tasty.  Inevitably, this is not – and simply can not be – true.  Once we assume the absolute superiority of local, seasonal food, we can see relative differences in quality. 

Thus, as much as I indulge in seasonal tomatoes, they are not all perfect.  Some are less ripe than others; some are more watery than others.  Last week’s tomatoes would have suited the previously-mentioned tomato salad from Anthony Bourdain, but this week’s may not be suitable.  So, what to do with the less-than-perfect tomato?

If the flavor is too mild, too diffuse, then that flavor needs concentration.

I have tried several oven-roasted tomato recipes, but I prefer Mario Batali’s (found in Molto Italiano and Simple Italian Food).  It is simple, uncomplicated, and allows time to do most of the work:

What you have the next morning can be eaten on its own as part of an antipasto, tossed with pasta, added to an orzo or Israeli-couscous salad with other vegetables, or frozen and used in winter.  Suddenly, what appeared inferior at first now is equal.

Earlier, I wrote of relative differences in quality, but now that word seems inadequate.  It’s not that some things are bad, just different, and different requires a varied approach.  Perhaps, then, I should rephrase the statement: differences in qualities.  Not only will each week’s offerings change what’s eaten, but the particular quality of that week’s produce changes it as well. 

Oven-Roasted Tomatoes

tomatoes, halved
olive oil
salt and pepper

Preheat oven to 150 (Note: My oven only goes down to 170, but the recipe was still successful).  On a cookie sheet, spread out the tomatoes, season with salt and pepper to taste, drizzle with olive oil.  Bake for 10-12 hours (overnight).