Summer’s Last Fruit Salsa

Sunday, September 25, 2011

The first day of autumn almost tastes like the crisp, tart apples that have just appeared at the market in their wooden crates.  In spring, I remember the first day the sun seems to actually warm rather than just provide wan light.  Although those days may be harbingers of the months to come, they are usually a few weeks ahead of their compatriots. Inevitably, there is a quick regress to the season’s status quo.


I had the first taste of autumn a couple of weeks ago.  Standing at the Sunday Headhouse Market and looking at the first apples - blush, chartreuse, pale gold, or some mixture of the three - I knew what was coming.  There soon followed warmer days, and once again, I was reminded that the transition from season to season is not nearly the clearly defined event my memory conspires to make it.


So, as the early autumn days closely resemble late summer days, here is a quick recipe from one of the more pleasant discoveries of our summer’s gardening: ground cherries.  I picked these randomly out of a seed catalog in February, and we were pleasantly surprised at the outcome.  They grow on extremely homely plants about three feet high, which promptly drop the ground cherries (hence the name?) in papery husks similar to a tomatillo’s.  The yellow pearl of fruit inside balances acidity, tartness, and sweetness like a perfectly ripe pineapple. 


We have tossed them with homemade granola, baked them into spelt-flour scones, and, as here, turned them into a quick salsa.  While we enjoyed this with some pan-grilled white fish, it could easily accompany grilled pork, chicken, or even some vegetables fritters.  They will not be here much longer, but they were wonderful while they lasted. 

Ground Cherry Salsa
1 cup ground cherries, husked
1 small red onion
1 small jalapeno, stem removed
¼ cup green herbs (garlic chives, parsley, cilantro)
salt
olive oil

Combine the ground cherries, onion, jalapeno, herbs, and a pinch of salt in the bowl of a food processor.  (If you want to mitigate the heat of the jalapeno, remove the seeds first.)  Pulse a few times to incorporate.  Add olive oil, 1 tablespoon at a time, and pulse after each addition, until you reach the desired consistency.  Taste again for salt and add if necessary.