Roux the day

Tuesday, May 27, 2008

Last week I bought a bunch of very pretty mustard greens from Willing Hands Farm at the Swarthmore Farmer’s Market.  I decided to make creamed mustard greens, something I love but rarely make.  As you can see from the photo, I served it with mashed potatoes and meatloaf (both 95% local).  You can also see that the mustard greens are a little more creamed than I would normally make - that’s because that nice big bunch of greens cooked down to barely two servings and I hate wasting good bechamel!

Speaking of bechamel - or white sauce, it’s come to my attention that very few people know how to make a good, basic bechamel.  My own mother didn’t even know what I was talking about (not to mention that she wrinkled up her nose at the mustard greens).  In the interest of making the world a better place, this is how you make a standard bechamel:

1. Melt 2 Tbsp of butter in a heavy saucepan over low - medium heat.
2. When the butter has just started to foam, add 2 Tbsp. of flour gradually while whisking.  Note: you have just made a classic roux.
3. Slowly pour in 1 cup of milk, continuing to whisk.
4. Throw in a pinch of grated nutmeg
5. Continue to cook (and whisk) until the sauce has thickened, maybe 15 minutes.  Do not let the sauce brown or stick to the bottom of the pan!

Your sauce should not be at all lumpy, but should be a nice thick-ish white sauce.

There is some disagreement about whether or not it is necessary to use scalded milk in the making of bechamel.  I say no - it is easy and effective enough to heat the milk after you combine it with the roux.

So what can you do with bechamel sauce?  It’s not what you can do with it, it’s what can’t you do with it.  If you’re a fan of the creamed spinach at Boston Market, combining bechamel sauce with lightly steamed spinach will give you a nice (better!) approximation of it.  I combined the bechamel I made last week with blanched mustard greens and then threw it in the oven at 350 degrees for 10 minutes to get some fantastic creamed mustard greens.  Bechamel is also the base for cream sauce, Sauce Mornay, and Sauce Aurore.  It’s great served on chicken or with eggs, or served over pasta.