Let them eat cake

Saturday, May 03, 2008

Last Saturday I was waiting in line to buy asparagus from Daryl Rineer at the Clark Park Farmer’s Market. Making it’s shocking debut as the only red in a sea of spring greens, the rhubarb was a popular item on that particular morning. Daryl was weighing out handfuls of it for two little boys in spangled superhero capes. Apparently, a pie was going to grace someone’s dinner table on that particular weekend. They boys handed Daryl their cash and cackled maniacally as they made off with their take, “We have so much RHUBARB!” I smiled at one of my fellow line-waiters and wondered whether I could have identified rhubarb at the age of eight or nine.

The only way I can think to describe springtime is as the ultimate annual relief, a reward for a long winter of chapped lips and turtlenecks. Feeling the warm sunshine and the easy air, and seeing the return of fresh things to the markets is enough to make those among us who have outgrown our sequined capes heft a sigh and breathe easier. Fickle Springtime is also an ideal season for baking. The days are warm but the early hours still call for a pair of socks and a twilight beckons a sweater. Whenever I see a recipe for oven-roasted anything in July or August I can’t help but wonder who these cooks are that they can bear to have a 400 degree oven anywhere near them with insects and air-conditioning units humming outside. Aside from the occasional pie - because what would summer be without pie?- I believe that oven usage should be reserved for the other seasons, which is where this coffee cake comes in.

Please excuse this yellow, slightly blurred photo of rhubarb on cake batter. This rushed shot does not do the finished coffee cake justice so I will refer you instead to Deb’s lovely photos of Melissa Clark’s recipe. My excuse for posting this shoddy photo is one of logistics: by the time I thought to snap a shot of the finished product it had already been devoured as breakfast, snack and dessert.