Some Green Amid The Gray
Sunday, March 13, 2016
Long after the allure of simmered stews, mashed root vegetables, and gratins has worn thin, there are still weeks (months?) to go before the farmers’ markets open. In the meantime, much of the greens we eat are either hydroponic bibb lettuce or microgreens. This is not a complaint about either; I just want a bit more variety. For the past few weeks we’ve been enjoying arugula from the Honey Brook Harvest Collective, which we get through Philly Foodworks. Not content with just another green for salads, I decided to make it into pesto. After all, is there any better reminder of summer?
The following is based on a recipe found in Pasta, a cookbook I strongly recommend if you are interested in refining your pasta dishes. The recipes are sequenced in order of difficulty, and in every recipe it stresses the importance of balance and the marriage of shape to pasta sauce (something I am only now learning to appreciate). Originally, the recipe called for both walnuts and pine nuts, but in keeping this as local as possible, I used only walnuts. Further, I used Valley Shepherd Creamery’s Hunterdon for the cheese. Last, I used Vesper Brothers Whole Wheat Penne.
Arugula Pesto and Whole Wheat Pasta
3 oz. walnuts
2 bunches (approximately 4 oz.) arugula, washed and dried
1 small garlic clove
2/3 cup olive oil
2 oz. grated Valley Shepherd Hunterdon
1 lb. whole wheat penne
6-8 sun-dried tomatoes, cut into thin strips
Scatter the walnuts on a baking sheet and toast them in a 300 degree oven for ten minutes. After the walnuts have cooled, place them and the garlic, arugula, and olive oil in a food processor and process until smooth and pour into a large mixing bowl. Stir in the cheese until well combined and allow to sit for at least 1 hour.
Cook the pasta according to the package directions. Drain and reserve 1 cup of the cooking water. Add the pasta to the pesto and stir to combine, use some of the pasta to thin the pesto if necessary to evenly coat the pasta. Top with the sun-dried tomatoes.
A Note About The Olive Oil: I find the amount of olive oil in a pesto to be extremely subjective, and it really is a matter of preference. To be honest, I don’t really measure it out. I simply add it to the food processor until I have just the creamy consistency I want and then I immediately stop. A pesto that leaves some oil pooled at the bottom of the pasta dish is, to me, too oily.
Not Your Mother’s Frozen Vegetables
Sunday, February 28, 2016
While we are incredibly lucky to have so many options for local produce in midwinter, it can get a bit depressing and monotonous right around this time of year. Enter locally frozen foods. Both Winter Harvest and Philly Foodworks regularly carry a selection of locally grown and frozen fruits and vegetables for those of us missing the variety of summer. In the dish above, we sauteed some frozen peppers as a base for arepas with frozen corn, both from Philly Foodworks. A few nights later, a bag of frozen peas from Winter Harvest made a perfect mushy pea side dish for grilled Hillacres Pride Kielbasa. Combine these options with the many vegetables still available fresh, and we all might just make it to spring.
When There’s Fire, There Should Be Smoke
Monday, January 11, 2016
Now that the weather finally resembles winter, I smell fires going in fireplaces nearly every night. I, in turn, light our fireplace every chance I get, and settle onto the couch with something comforting and steaming. It’s safe to say that if I am in the house, I am in front of the fireplace.
It is, perhaps, all of that time around a fire that makes me crave smokiness in my food. Coupling that with a strong desire to ease off of meat after the holidays, I opted for this frittata from Yotam Ottolenghi as breakfast one recent morning.
In this case, the smokiness comes from the scamorza and paprika. Be sure to sufficiently brown the cauliflower before adding the egg mixture; it makes all the difference in the flavor. Neither should you eliminate the chives if you can help it; they provide a nice contrast both in taste and appearance. It was easy to make with local ingredients: I substituted smoked gouda for the scamorza and cheddar and yogurt for the creme fraiche. Since this was only for the two of us, I cut everything in half (but used four smallish eggs) and split everything between two small cast-iron skillets. Consequently, I cut the cooking time in the oven to approximately six minutes.
Eat This Baby For Breakfast
Wednesday, January 06, 2016
I’m almost two years late to the Dutch Baby Craze, and I have no idea why I waited so long to try one after seeing these skillet size pancakes puffing up all over food blogs and in the NYT Food section. They couldn’t be easier to make, and the popover effect both looks cool and creates lovely browned edges and pools of melted butter. I followed this recipe from The Kitchn, swapping out the all purpose flour with whole wheat from Daisy Organic Flours. It was still light and wonderfully chewy - I wouldn’t have known it was whole wheat flour if I hadn’t made it myself.
A Spanish Dish From the East Coast
Tuesday, October 27, 2015
Even if I had made bacon-wrapped scallops, like, a hundred times, I don’t think I would have ever arrived at the combination of scallops and chorizo on my own. It makes perfect sense in retrospect. The spicy, paprika-flavored oil rendered from the chorizo, in turn, infuses the scallops. The soft and creamy texture of the scallops plays off the crispy and brittle chorizo. Then, everything is accented by the bright flavors of lemon juice and fresh parsley. It is a very nice study in contrasts, actually. As Nigella says, it comes together quite rapidly, so make sure that all of the ingredients are prepped and that anything else you are serving it with is ready before you start.
The scallops, as fresh as could be, came from Shore Catch, and the chorizo from La Divisa, a very welcome addition to the Headhouse Market this season. I’ve raved about both before, but this combination gives me a new reason to do so.
Crack Open A Book
Tuesday, September 29, 2015
With Sunday’s Headhouse Market closed due to the Papal Visit, we had stocked up the week before. Then the weekend came, and the blissfully car free streets full of happy residents and visitors made eating out seem so much more appealing than cooking that fridge full of food. I was feeling a little dispirited by the idea of getting through it all, until I decided to take a look at a cookbook or two for some motivation. A few minutes later, having flipped through 100 or so pages of Tender by Nigel Slater, I had three recipes we could easily make with everything we had on hand.
It seems so silly to say “and then I thought of my cookbooks!”, but this time of year I really do tend to forget them. So much of what’s available right now needs little in the way of a recipe to make a delicious dinner. Blogs, newspapers, and magazines all offer recipes perfect for the season. But a cookbook like Tender, as the subtitle “A Cook and His Vegetable Patch” suggests, is perfect for looking up individual vegetables and finding simple, seasonal dishes. I immediately made a broccoli and bacon soup for lunches, the recipe available here, then moved on to baked eggplant with tomato and parmesan for dinner.
A Summer Picnic
Saturday, August 01, 2015
As soon as I tasted our naturally fermented pickles made a few weeks ago, I knew we had to put a picnic together.
Headhouse Market newcomber La Divisa meats made it easy, with a wonderful thinly sliced ham we slathered with Green Aisle Grocery’s horseradish on Ric’s Bread. And of course there had to be a tomato sandwich.
For dessert, I cooked down a bunch of rhubarb from our garden and made a rhubarb fool. This was one of those too pretty desserts I had never gotten around to trying. Definitely worth the minimal effort in the summer - it was cool, slightly tart, and did I mention pretty?
Sauteed String Beans in Tomato Sauce
Saturday, July 25, 2015
While I thought it was fitting to use my grandmother’s bowl to serve this old fashioned dish, the result didn’t taste much like the stewed green beans I remember from childhood. For one, I briefly blanched the beans while the simple tomato sauce was cooking so they could be thrown in at the end to just cook through. I also used a combination of wax beans and two varieties of pole beans for a mix of flavors. Our lovely San Marzano plum tomatoes on the plants we got at Savoie Organic Farm aren’t quite ripe yet, so we used several beautiful Persimmons. They were definitely more juicy than a plum, but that worked well for this quickly cooked sauce. We did add some chunks of fresh mozzarella from Hillacres Pride just before eating - purely for the protein, of course.
Sauteed String Beans in Tomato Sauce
1 pound string beans
3 cloves garlic
2 tablespoons olive oil
5 medium tomatoes
12 basil leaves
Trim beans, blanch in salted water and set aside. Using the same boiling water, blanch tomatoes just long enough for their skins to crack. Rinse briefly to cool, remove skins and chop in 1 inch chunks.
Mince garlic and saute a minute in olive oil over medium heat. Add tomatoes and a few pinches of salt and leave simmering until tomatoes begin to break down and sauce thickens. Add beans and cook until beans are desired consistency.
Serves 2 for lunch or 4-6 as a side dish.
Another Way with Zucchini
Saturday, July 18, 2015
Aside from grilling, my favorite summertime meals are pastas lightly sauced and loaded with vegetables. So, I was particularly happy with this offering from the New York Times’ David Tanis. We used ricotta from Hillacres Pride, available at the Headhouse Market, and the small and piquant leaves of minette basil growing in our window boxes.
My take on this involved three alterations. First, I cut the zucchini into half-rounds that were considerably thinner than Tanis’s. It may just be a matter of preference, but I like the zucchini to nearly fall apart, becoming a creamy sauce in their own right. Second, I cooked the zucchini for considerably longer - and covered - than Tanis instructs. Third, I used more reserved pasta cooking water as well. Adapting Tanis’s wine recommendation, we paired this with a sauvignon blanc from Turdo Vineyards. One final note for future experiments with this recipe: I suspect that a mint pesto, rather than a basil one, might work as well.
Half Sour Pickles
Wednesday, July 15, 2015
As if there is any other kind. It took me a few years of canning before I realized vinegar preserving was not going to get me the slightly crisp, garlicky, mildly pungent taste I was looking for in a dill pickle. I had given up until last summer’s food swap, when Amanda of Phickle traded us a giant jar of naturally fermented pickles. They were perfect. A few days ago we received a big haul of kirby pickles, so I prepared them according to these directions. I learned two interesting things from the article preceding the recipe. First, cutting off the blossom end of the cucumber can help prevent soft pickles, as the blossom ends contain enzymes which can soften your pickles. The article also mentioned adding grape leaves, which contain tannins that counteract softening as the pickle ferments. (This Penn State Extension article does an excellent job explaining the science behind and practical methods for crispy pickles.) The photo above shows one jar in all its loveliness, and the second jar already wearing its baggie full of water to keep air out during fermentation. Not quite as pretty, but a necessary part of safe fermentation. I plan to ferment these two jars for different amounts of time to see how long it takes to achieve the results I want. With any luck, there will be no puckering sourness and no softness, and I will celebrate by making a giant grilled cheese sandwich to eat them with.
Fried Stuffed Zucchini Flowers
Wednesday, July 08, 2015
The last time I made these was in Italy, frying them in tiny single batches in a tin cup we found in the rental villa. The flowers were for sale in the local co-op, the olive oil from the farm we were staying on. I had no thermometer, and no recipe, and I still suspect the first few came out way too greasy, but they were gone as quickly as I could make them. This time was much easier, with both a candy thermometer set at a perfect 350 degrees and this very simple recipe from Tyler Florence to which we only added a small cube of mozzarella in each flower. We used flowers from Queens Farm and Hillacres Pride mozzarella. They disappeared as quickly as last time, though I managed a picture.
New Twist on an Old Dish
Wednesday, June 10, 2015
One of the vendors we religiously shop at Headhouse Market is Shore Catch. Shopping there as much as we do, we inevitably repeat some recipes once we bring the fish and shellfish home. So, there is a perpetual urge to find new recipes.
This one, taken from the indispensable River Cottage Fish, gave me two twists on something I thought I knew inside out: spaghetti and clams. Growing up Italian-American in South Jersey, it was impossible not to see this at Sunday dinners and Seven Fishes. Therefore, I was surprised to see a version use actual cream (completely new to me) with clams that were fresh but removed from their shells - I was accustomed to thinking of either fresh clams in their shells or canned clams. Most importantly, it called for fresh pasta. In retrospect the fresh pasta makes perfect sense - being, as it is, ideally suited to richer, cream or butter-based sauces, but for someone raised on spaghetti and clams in white sauce, this was a revelation.
Discoveries aside, the dinner still needs refinement. Not having any white wine at hand (i.e., my stock of Galen Glen Gruner Veltliner having long run dry), I resorted to a bit of pasta water. The resulting sauce was a little too light and simple. A glass of white wine may have added the depth and viscosity it needed. However, in a nod to my favorite dish from Bistro La Minette, I would also be tempted to add some fresh tarragon to the sauce as well. Either way, from now on if it’s clams in white sauce, it’s going to be fresh pasta.
Four-Minute Squid (or Less)
Wednesday, May 27, 2015
The River Cottage’s seafood cookbook, titled The River Cottage Fish Book strangely enough, continues to be my favorite on the subject. Not only does it advocate for sustainable, local seafood, it provides an abundance of information regarding species, recipe substitutions, and some general cooking guidelines that are endlessly useful. If you are intent on buying seasonally, locally, and sustainably, this flexibility is crucial.
My latest favorite is a quick squid recipe. As he does elsewhere, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall states that this is more a suggestion than a recipe, but I would call it a technique. The bodies of the cleaned squid, which we purchase from Shore Catch at the Headhouse Market, are butterflied (basically cut open so that they lay flat), scored on each side in a diamond pattern, and then tossed with something for flavor. The original recipe calls for olive oil, salt, pepper, garlic, and finely chopped garlic, but this is infinitely adaptable. To cook, set to maximum heat under your cast-iron pan, griddle, or grill and cook one minute or so per side, turning them twice. Two cautions here, though: one, make sure the pan or grill is thoroughly preheated; two, if you go beyond four minutes, you will have overcooked them. They will curl up, which is good, and they will also char, which is even better.
More from In Search of the Perfect Loaf
Sunday, February 15, 2015
Having already recommended Samuel Fromartz’s In Search of the Perfect Loaf, I will refer you to my earlier comments as to why. However, I can already identify two benefits from reading Fromartz. One, it has given me the confidence to experiment with recipes and tailor results. Two, should those experiments fail - or, more accurately, fail to meet expectations - I now have a better sense of why. Both applied in this instance.
The first time I made this loaf, Jim Lahey’s. There isn’t anything necessarily wrong with that; it’s just not my preference. This time, I felt confident enough in my baking to use a different temperature and cooking time, based on Lynne Rossetto Kasper’s Modena Mountain Bread. This involved not only a lower temperature, but also retaining steam in the oven. This variation was, unquestionably, a success.
Unfortunately, as you can see here, the crumb is anything but light and airy. It’s dense and chewy, which is fine, but that wasn’t what I was going for. What went wrong? Fromartz’s recipe calls for letting the dough rise in a pantry that’s roughly 55 degrees. Given the absurdly low temperatures last night, I am guessing our pantry was significantly lower than 55. However, that wasn’t the real mistake; the real mistake was not trusting my instincts when I pulled the dough out this morning. I was following the recipe exactly, but I should have known it needed a longer rise.
Having written that, I now realize a third benefit of reading ...The Perfect Loaf: rather than discouraged by this disappointment, I will simply try again.
Humble and Lazy Beans
Sunday, November 02, 2014
Each year, I am amazed at the diversity and output of our little garden plot. Even when the success rate of our three-sisters experiment was 66% (no squash), we still came away with delicious corn and an unusual pole bean called Lazy Housewife.
I thought the Lazy Housewife was just amusingly named, but there’s a metaphor buried in that imaginative moniker: there was little effort in harvesting the dried beans. To be honest, we picked the beans, plopped them in the vegetable bin in the fridge, and completely forgot about them. Weeks later, we remembered, peeled them open, and out popped dried beans.
Since these were special to us, I wanted a simple preparation - no stews or soups here. So, I opted for this recipe from Jamie Oliver. The Lazy Housewife may have been used in “Humble Home-cooked Beans,” but don’t let the underwhelming adjectives deceive you. They were absolutely delicious. Apart from the (apparent) simplicity of the dish, I was interested in the technique: simmering the beans with vegetables and spices to impart flavor. I had done so with garlic and herbs, but never this many ingredients. The results were beans that didn’t taste like the vegetables, but a more interesting, complex version of themselves. Just a word of warning: a long, slow simmer is best. In fact, simmer these the way you would simmer a slow-cooking shoulder-cut of meat.