White Dog Hosts Local Corn Dinner

Sunday, August 05, 2007

On Tuesday, August 7 at 6 pm, White Dog Café will celebrate the tastes of Summer with a Local Corn Dinner, featuring innovative dishes created with corn grown organically by Pennsylvania farmers. 

“Right now in our little corner of the world, corn is at its peak of perfection,” says White Dog founder Judy Wicks.  “With this dinner we are celebrating both the glorious bounty of the area’s fertile countryside and the hardworking farmers who cultivate it.”

To create the dinner, Executive Chef Andrew Brown sought out the region’s best organic corn, a bi-color silver and white sweet variety, indigenous to South-Eastern Pennsylvania, which he sources from Green Meadow Farms, Branch Creek Farms and Lancaster County Farm Fresh Co-Op.  For the multi-course dinner, Chef Brown will create a variety of delicious dishes that showcases the corn’s incredibly sweet natural flavor.  Some of the dishes will include:  Corn and Herb Gnocchi, with blue crab and corn broth; Corn Encrusted Fish, line caught from the Atlantic Ocean; Corn Pudding, with chocolate-hazelnut topping; and several surprise dishes.  The dinner will cost $45 per person.  Reservations are required. 

Following the dinner, guests will be joined by Deborah M. Burd, Executive Director of the National Campaign for Sustainable Agriculture, who will discuss some of the challenges facing small, family-owned farms and explain what guests can do to help change the US Farm Bill to protect the area’s rich farming traditions.

White Dog Cafe
3420 Sansom St.
(215) 386-9224

Hot and Sweet Chevre

Friday, August 03, 2007

If I were stranded on a desert island and could only take along one kind of food, it would be cheese.  I love cheese above all else, which makes me the black sheep of the family because my people have a serious sweet tooth issue.  It’s possible, though, that Shellbark Hollow Farm’s Hot and Sweet Chevre could make them see the light - this locally made cheese is absolute perfection.

Ignore what you think goat cheese tastes like.  Some of it can be a little chalky in texture, and many people don’t like goat cheese because it’s got a bit of a tang to it.  Maybe it’s the locally produced raw and organic goat milk or maybe it’s purebred Nubian goats cared for lovingly by the family who runs Shellbark Hollow Farm - this goat cheese is light but tart, and unbelievably good.  When you add in the hot peppers, it’s irresistible!

The Fair Food Farmstand at Reading Terminal Market sells Shellbark Farm products, and I’m also told that the White Dog Cafe often has the cheese on their menu.  Do what you have to in order to get your hands on some.

CSA Weekly Report: Lancaster Farm Fresh

Thursday, August 02, 2007

What’s fresh off the farm this week from Lancaster Farm Fresh Coop?  Come and see...

3 green peppers grown by Meadow Valley Organics
1 sugar baby watermelon grown by Green Acres Organics
1 pint grape tomatoes grown by Farmdale Organics
4 heirloom tomatoes grown by Green Valley Organics
2 Cubanella peppers grown by Green Valley Organics
5 lbs potatoes grown by Scarecrow Hill Farm
3 yellow squash grown by Green Valley Organics
2 green cucumbers grown by Elm Tree Organics
2 candy onions grown by Meadow Valley Organics

Amy, our friendly neighborhood coop representative, suggests making watermelon margaritas with the watermelon in this week’s share - a woman after my own heart!  Pass the tequila!

It’s been so hot here in Philly the last few days I thought I might use the onions, cucumbers, peppers, and tomatoes for gazpacho - nothing beats sitting out on the back porch with a cold bowl of gazpacho and some good bread from Le Bus!  Of course, the tomatoes look so delicious that they may not last long enough in my house to make it into the soup!

Give me the kraut and no one gets hurt

Wednesday, August 01, 2007

I love sauerkraut.  Love it!  Growing up, we always had sauerkraut, pork, and mashed potatoes on New Year’s Day (for luck), a tradition I still continue as an adult.  And in college I admit that my breakfast of champions was a daily hot dog with mustard and kraut from Dave’s Dogs in front of Temple University’s library.

My family never served homemade sauerkraut, though, and I’m relatively certain that Dave’s Dogs didn’t exactly use the finest sauerkraut.  I’ve sort of wondered about the logistics of making sauerkraut at home, but it never really went beyond the wondering stage...until about a month ago.  I ended up with two rather large heads of cabbage through the CSA share.  Not knowing what I wanted to do with two heads of cabbage, it seemed like a good idea to try my hand at sauerkraut-making.

The first obstacle was finding a vessel in which to let the cabbage ferment.  Stoneware crocks are popular - the Harsch Fermentation Crock, for instance.  But I wanted something less expensive for my first time out.  I settled on a five gallon food grade plastic bucket with an airlock in the lid, one meant for homebrewing (which ensures that I try homebrewing at some point, as well!).

After that, it was super easy.  Using a mandoline, I sliced up the cabbage as thin as I could and tossed it in the bucket.  I sprinkled four Tablespoons of pickling salt over the cabbage, and used my hands to mix the salt in and squeeze the cabbage until liquid was released.  I poured some water over the cabbage until it was all just covered with water, put on the lid, and let it ferment in my kitchen for just over three weeks.

Most recipes I ran across for sauerkraut called for kosher salt instead of pickling salt, but sometimes you have to improvise.  The pickling salt worked just great, although I think it makes the sauerkraut slightly sweeter than kosher would have.  Regular old table salt, by the way, will not work.  Don’t even try it.  The ratio of salt to cabbage, by the way, is five pounds of shredded cabbage to four Tablespoons of salt.

If you use a crock that isn’t air tight, there’s this whole rigamarole involving cheesecloth and pressing and skimming scum off the top.  I’m not one for scum, so I took the easy route.  Also, the temperature of your kitchen (or wherever you might choose to ferment the sauerkraut) has a direct bearing on the length of time it may take to ferment properly.  The ideal temp is around 75 degrees, which takes approximately three weeks.  The lower the temperature, the longer it will take to ferment. 

All of that to get to the final product: last night I uncorked my fermenting vessel and checked it out - perfect, tangy sauerkraut!  I didn’t relish the idea of dragging out my pressure canner last night, so I packed it into freezer bags and threw it in my chest freezer.  Frozen sauerkraut will last just about a year.  Of course, my annual New Year’s Day krautfest is only about six months away.  Hooray!

CSA Weekly Report: Red Earth Farm

This week’s haul, from left to right:

peaches (from the buying club)
slicing tomatoes
red potatoes
onions
green bell peppers
flat-leaf parsley
leeks (hiding in the back)

The peaches are for out-of-hand eatin’. The tomatoes and some of the onions will be part of a koshary for tomorrow. I’m thinking of making vichyssoise with the potatoes and leeks. The peppers smell so fresh, I might just eat them as is, a la Iron Chef!

CSA Weekly Report: Blooming Glen Farm

Tuesday, July 31, 2007

(Click to visit notes about the names and quantities
of this week’s Blooming Glen share.)

I was out picking-my-own string beans this afternoon and considering the sign that said we were free to glean several rows of beans.  Knowing that I’d be out of town for a couple weeks and had to preserve most of my share anyway, my instinct was to spend an extra half-hour picking over the rows for a few extra quarts.  Of course, after ten minutes under the hot sun and humid air, reality took over instinct.  Besides, I still had to finish packing for that vacation. 

Another member, on the other side of the aisle must’ve read my mind. 

“I always think of the farmers when I’m out here.  It really makes you think about what goes into the food you eat, doesn’t it?”

Her words have been ringing in my ears since.  Of course, I’m thinking about the farmers. Really, I was thinking about the farmers because I didn’t want to get caught popping all those heavenly acidic cherry tomatoes into my mouth instead of into my pint basket, but I knew what she was getting at.

Little defining moments like these happen nearly every week when I go to pick up the share - honest and real moments that just don’t happen at the Superfresh. 

Sunday at Headhouse Square

Sunday, July 29, 2007

Despite the rain that was coming down this morning, I headed out around quarter to 1 pm to walk down to the Farmers’ Market at Headhouse Square.  I’ve been trying to get down there every Sunday since they opened, and for one reason or another, I haven’t been able to make it happen.  But this morning I got up, with a mostly unplanned day stretching out in front of me. It was still drizzling when I headed out, but the skies started to clear right around 1 pm.  I got to the market around 1:15 pm and wandered around for a while, taking pictures, and checking out the vast arrays of lush, gorgeous, drool-inducing produce. 

I eventually put my camera away and got down the business of buying some produce.  I gave myself a limit of $20 and only went over by a single dollar.  Here’s what my $21 got me…

1+ pounds blond cucumbers
2 green peppers
1 generous package of lemon verbena
1 pint sweet orange cherry tomatoes
1 quart white peaches
2 yellow heirloom tomatoes
1 butternut squash (although it seems to early for these guys, she told me they were fresh)
1 bunch kale
1 bunch Swiss chard
2 yellow peaches
4 small yellow plums
3 small pears

Everything is blindingly fresh, mostly organic and all locally grown.  Now, if you’ll excuse me, it’s time to eat. 

When Fresh Truly Counts

Friday, July 27, 2007

I suddenly feel so accomplished!  I made something I thought only restaurants serve.  After all, how many times have any of us come to the call of “Dinner’s ready!” to find fried squash blossoms stuffed with fresh herbed goat cheese?  I certainly haven’t had the pleasure before.  Readers extraordinaire, you must give this recipe a try if you can get your hands on some fresh squash blossoms.  It wasn’t nearly as hard as one might think to make these delicate and tasty beauties.

Indeed, the beauty and the flaw of this dish are the squash blossoms themselves.  First, they are not a common supermarket find.  Second, if you do find them but you don’t get them very very fresh and take good care to keep them cool and moist, they get rather difficult (read: rubbery) to handle (although you can still make it work).  That being said, I know there are some of you out there dutifully growing squash plants up the side of the fence in your tiny Philly rowhouse backyard, in urban plots/pots or, for those luckier ducks, in your large suburban kitchen gardens.  You, my friends, have no excuse not to give this one a go.  In fact, I think you owe it to those that don’t have easy squash blossom access to put your good fortune to use.

How, pray tell, does one harvest a squash blossom?  Since squash develop from the blossoms, you don’t want to pick the “female” blossoms that are found low and in the center of the plant.  Rather, pick the “male” blossoms that are on long slender stems higher up in the plant.  You’ll easily be able to tell the difference once you’re actually looking at a squash plant.

For those of you without your own squash plants, check out the Headhouse Farmers Market on Sunday’s in Philly.  This new and unusually lively market is located in the historic “shambles” on 2nd and South Streets.  There you’ll find loads of local produce, including a few vendors, such as Weavers Way Farm, selling squash blossoms picked that morning.  You really must get them as fresh as possible! 

Once you’ve aquired your delicate blossoms by hook or by crook, store them in a ziplock bag filled with air (to cushion them) and with a damp paper towel.  Keep in the fridge for up to a day. 

Let us know if you try this recipe and how they turn out.  Also, what other uses do you know of for squash blossoms.  According to my trusty kitchen garden reference book, they are suppose to be good in salads and stir frys.  I’m so fixated on the fried stuffed version that I haven’t gotten around to trying either just yet…

FRIED SQUASH BLOSSOMS STUFFED WITH HERB CHEESE
Adapted from Chez Panisse menu

12 large squash blossoms
8 oz. goat cheese, room temperature
1/4 c. finely minced fresh herbs (thyme, basil, chives, sage, or others)
1 large shallot, finely minced
salt and pepper
2 eggs
1/4 c. milk
1/2 c. corn meal mix (look for one that includes salt and baking powder) or masa harina (available in some larger stores)
Freshly ground pepper
1 c. vegetable oil

Place the goat cheese in a small bowl.  Mix in the minced herbs, shallots and salt.  Mixture will come together easier if the cheese is at room temperature.  Once mixed, cover and place in refrigerator for 15 minutes or until firm again.

Prepare your “assembly line” by beating the eggs and milk together in a shallow bowl.  Place corn meal mix or masa harina in another shallow bowl and mix in the freshly ground pepper.  If blossoms have not already been prepped, gently remove all but a small tip of the stem and look closely for any dirt or insects.  If you find anything, gently wipe clean with a damp towel.

When cheese mixture is firm, take teaspoon size amounts and roll into small balls with your hands the way you would chilled cookie dough.  Place a cheese ball into the center of each blossom and twist the ends of the petals together to fully enclose the cheese.

Dip each blossom into the egg mixture.  Let excess drip off.  Quickly and gently roll blossom in dry mixture, shaking excess off.  Set blossoms in refrigerator until ready to fry.

Place vegetable oil in a skillet and heat to approximately 350 degrees or until a tiny pinch of corn meal dropped in produces a good sizzle.  Carefully place half the blossoms into the hot oil.  Turn them over to brown evenly on all sides.  When golden brown, remove and place on a paper towel to drain.  Bring oil back up to temperature and fry the remaining blossoms.

Sprinkle with a pinch of salt and serve immediately with any leftover cheese as a garnish in the center of the plate.

(makes 12, serves 4)

GAD-zukes!

Thursday, July 26, 2007

It is that time of year.. where you are up to your eyeballs in zucchini. Today I was just too full of summer squash to know what to do with myself. So I pulled myself together and found this recipe online. I’ve tinkered a bit, but here is a summer squash soup recipe to enjoy. (based on the June 2002 Oprah Mag recipe.)

Summer Squash Soup
ingredients:
-2 tbl olive oil
-2 onions chopped (local!)
-2 celery stalks chopped
-6 garlic cloves (local!)
-summer squash, about 3 lbs chopped. (I used patty pan, yellow and zukes, local!)
-4 sprigs of thyme
-2 strips of lemon peel
-5 cups of vegetable stock (you could substitute chicken stock)
-1/2 tsp salt
-3 tbl fresh lemon juice
-hot pepper sauce
-parmesan chese for garnish.

In a large soup pot, heat olive oil over medium heat. Add onions, celery and garlic. Cook for 10 minutes or until onions are soft. Add squash, thyme, and lemon peel. Cook for 5 minutes. Increase heat to medium high and add stock and salt. Simmer until squash is soft. Discard thyme.

Puree the soup in batches and return to the soup pot. Heat through. Add lemon juice and hot pepper to taste.

Garnish it shaved parmesan.

***Last tidbit. I roasted my squash to give it extra flavor. This made the whole cooking time go much faster for an already speedy dinner course.

Gleaning Day!

City Harvest recently announced times and locations for their Fall “gleaning day”.  It’s a great way to help Philadelphia’s underserved families get good, nutritious food.  This Fall when you clean up your garden, be sure to collect your extra produce and participate!

From a Pennsylvania Horticultural Society press release:

Historically, “gleaning” is the collection of leftover produce from farm fields after mechanical harvesting for donation to emergency food cupboards. Through Philadelphia Green’s City Harvest project, home and community gardeners can “glean” from their gardens this fall and donate extra produce to help needy families in our region.

City Harvest is a partnership with the Philadelphia Prison System; communitygardeners; and SHARE (Self Help and Resource Exchange), a nonprofit network that provides nutritious food to families and individuals. Inmates of the Philadelphia Prison System start vegetable seedlings that are grown to maturity at 25 community gardens in Philadelphia, and SHARE facilitates distribution of the produce to area food cupboards.

If you would like to participate, please collect your extra garden produce and bring it to one of following locations. Any amount is welcome. Donations of fresh, ready-to-eat vegetables or fruit can be packed in boxes or bags. Produce should be cleaned of soil (a few bug holes are okay), have no major bruising, and preferably be naturally grown. SHARE will begin picking up donations at 1 pm.  Participants will be entered in a raffle to win tickets to the Philadelphia Flower Show.

Locations for August 18:
Journey Home Garden, 800 N. 8th St, 19123 (8th & Poplar)
Hansberry Garden & Nature Center, 5150 Wayne Ave. 19144 (Germantown, Wayne & Hansberry)
Southwark Community Garden, 311 Christian St, 19147 (South Phila., 3rd & Christian)
Warrington Community Garden, 4731 Warrington Ave. 19143 (47th & Warrington)

Locations for September 15
Aspen Farms, 4837 Aspen St, 19139 (West Phila., 49th & Aspen Streets, off Haverford Ave)
Bel Arbor Community Garden, 1012 Kimball St., 19147 (South Phila., between 10th & 11th Sts. just south of Carpenter) Garden RUN, 242 Monastery Ave., 19128 (off Ridge Ave. in Roxborough)
Liberty Lands Garden, 913 N 3rd St., 19123 (Northern Liberties, entrance off Bodine & American Sts.)
For more information, please email or call Eileen Gallagher at 215-988-8880.

Local. Sort of .

We vacation in the Outer Banks where the produce at the local supermarket is terrible. The small produce store has some better items, but since I’m a member of the Red Earth Farm CSA (I split a full share of ten items with my friend Jen) I decided to bring along the entire contents of last week’s box.

The box contained:
Beets
Bunch of kale
3 zucchini
4 green peppers
Bunch Walla Walla onions
Half pint of Sun Gold tomatoes
3 heads of garlic (extra because they were left out of the previous week’s share)
Quart of green beans
Quart of wax beans
Pint of new potatoes
Bunch of Rainbow Chard (extra because it was left out of the previous week’s share)
Bunch of carrots
Pint of apricots
quart of sweet cherries
Quart of blueberries (from the buying club)
Block of Jack cheese (from the buying club)
Block of Cheddar cheese (from the buying club)

I also picked up a separate buying club order from Meadow Run Farm and packed up more (locally grown, pastured) meat in one cooler than I’ve eaten in the past six months.

Because that didn’t seem like enough for two weeks I stopped at my local Farmer’s Market and picked up:

6 ears of corn
2 quarts of Peaches
Cantaloupe

And from my own garden I picked:
Rosemary
Basil
Tarragon
Thyme

So far, instead of eating eating out for every meal our dinners have been

Whole Wheat Rotini with Ratatouille (Roasted Golden Tomatoes, Zucchini, Walla Walla Onions and Garlic, olive oil, thyme and basil) and parmesan served with Swiss chard sautéed with garlic and olive oil.

Hamburgers with raw herbed jack and raw colby dill cheese (from the Fair Food Stand) on whole wheat buns. Sauteed zucchini and onions with tarragon

Whole brined butterflied chicken grilled, corn on the cob, Green and wax beans with butter and parsley.

I used the chicken carcass and some carrots, onion and garlic to make a chicken stock for the next night’s meal, which was Beet risotto gone wrong. I brought the wrong rice (long grain, not short) so I had to make long grain brown rice with onions, garlic and butter cooked in chicken stock, roasted beets, and sautéed beet greens with garlic instead of the risotto I’d planned

So far our meals have been delicious and I’m thrilled I packed four coolers worth of food. But traveling 375 miles leaves me with this question- if I’m eating the meals in coastal North Carolina does the food still count as locally grown?

CSA Weekly Report: Red Earth Farm

I’m a member of the Red Earth Farm CSA. They’re an organic farm located in Schuylkill County, and have drop-off locations for shares throughout the Greater Philadelphia area. Red Earth Farm is unique in that it is a “member choice CSA,” meaning you can choose the produce you want from a list of available items. They also have options for egg and fruit shares, as well as a pay-as-you-go buying club for purchasing additional fruit and vegetables.

I have a partial share, which means I can get up to 6 items weekly. I am also subscribed to their buying club, which allows me to buy local fruit when it’s available.

This week’s share consisted of:
2 bunches of carrots
Curly kale
Red new potatoes
Wax beans
Pattypan squash
Blueberries (from the buying club)

I bought the carrots specifically for juicing-- we have a juicer at home and it’s the husband’s favorite juice. The blueberries are for a crisp/crumble, just because. I haven’t decided what to do with the other items, but I’m sure inspiration will strike when needed.

CSA Weekly Report: Lancaster Farm Fresh

It’s Thursday, and you know what that means - the CSA report from Lancaster Farm Fresh!  The share this week is massive.  No doubt it will be a struggle to carry all it home tonight!

Here’s the haul:

1 bunch Chiogga beets grown by Farmdale Organics
2 green peppers grown by Meadow Valley Organics
1 head red leaf lettuce grown by Scarecrow Hill Farm
3 candy onions grown by Back Forty Ranch
1 dozen ears of sweet corn grown by Green Acres Organics
6 tomatoes grown by Green Valley Organics and Countryside Organics
2 lemon cucumbers grown by Riverview Organics
1 bag green beans grown by Countryside Organics
2 green cucumbers grown by Farmdale Organics
2 green zucchini grown by Meadow Valley Organics
4 patty pan squash grown by Green Valley Organics
1 pint grape tomatoes grown by Farmdale Organics

I fully admit that I’ve been giving my lettuce away to the first available person.  I am officially off salads, possibly for life.  Early on the shares were chock full of lettuce.  My husband and I have a full share for ourselves and you can only eat so much lettuce, right?  We have eaten enough lettuce this Summer that neither one of us can look at a head without getting a little queasy.  At one point I had six heads of lettuce in my kitchen and feeling panicked.  The idea of wasting food makes me sick, but it’s not like you can freeze or otherwise preserve lettuce.

Well, except you can...sort of.

I ran into a recipe for Cream of Lettuce Soup that I really ended up liking.  The potatoes give it a nice body.  So I used every single head of lettuce in the house and made a few batches of soup, minus the cream and egg yolks, and froze it.  In the dead of Winter, the soup will be wonderful!

So far it’s the only way I’ve found to preserve lettuce.  I’d love to hear it if anyone has some alternative ideas.

CSA Weekly Report: Blooming Glen Farm

Tuesday, July 24, 2007

Blooming Glen Farm, locate in Perkasie, PA began a CSA program last year that knocked the socks off our community and generated a waiting list for this year before the season even ended.  Their second season has proven thus far to be just as exceptional.  The variety of produce offered by Tom and Tricia, I think, will become a hallmark of their farm:

Click the image to view item names and quantities at flick’r and to get a closer look at all the great colors and textures. 

Isn’t summer lovely?

2007 Farm Bill Approved in House Ag Committee

Monday, July 23, 2007

The House Agriculture Committee unanimously passed the 2007 Farm Bill recently.  Like all federal legislation, there are some good things and some bad things.  Without doubt, many Pennsylvania farmers will be affected by the bill if it is approved.

Let’s talk about the bad part first.

• The new Farm Bill will allow farmers to earn an annual gross [net taxable income] of $1 million per year before becoming ineligible for government subsidies. Sadly, this really is a win - in the last farm bill, the cap was $2.5 million.  I don’t know many small farmers coming anywhere close to earning $1 million per year, so this seems primarily to benefit larger, corporate farms.
• The bill removes any cap on loan deficiency payments and increases the cap on direct payments by 50 percent to $120,000.  Many say the result will be higher land prices that lead to farm consolidation, fewer family farmers, and reduced farming opportunities for a new farmers.
• The bill does not fully restore the $4 billion cut to the Conservation Security Program and freezes program sign-ups until 2010.  This is a real shame - the program rewards and encourages environmental stewardship on working land.  A great program has basically been gutted.
• Leaves the big commodity programs intact for cotton, corn, wheat, rice, soybeans and a handful of other crops that are traditionally grown by corporate farms, and even threw in an export subsidy for tobacco.  This increases the rates at which the U.S. supports prices for subsidized crops.

• The bill creates a voluntary crop insurance program providing $1.8 billion to support farmers of fruits and vegetables and some specialty crops.
• $350 million will be given to promote healthy snacks in school, increase the maximum limit in direct subsidies to $60,000 from $40,000.  At least 35 schools in every state will be eligible for the program.
• A loophole that allowed some farmers to collect double on payments through partnerships with multiple farms has been closed.
• Allows for full implementation of mandatory country of origin labeling for meat.  The 2002 Farm Bill also called for such labeling, but the meat packing lobby blocked implementation.  Coincidentally, ground meat might be able to slide by with a label of where it might come from.  Thanks, but I’ll stick to buying meat from one of our awesome local farmers.  At least I really know where it came from!
• Creates an “open fields” grant program to help states pay landowners to open their land to hunting and fishing.
• The Wetlands Reserve Program, which pays for restoring and maintaining sloughs, prairie potholes and other wetlands, was expanded from 2.3 million to 3.6 million acres.
• Authorizes up to $10,000 per farm in cost-share payments per year to help farms convert to organic agriculture, as well as providing additional money for organic research and certification and it requires the U.S. Department of Agriculture to start collecting data on organic commodities.
• Creates a special subsidy for malting barley to encourage more farmers to grow the crop.  Woohoo! More beer!  With luck, that will equal more small scale brewers!
• Revives a special subsidy program that will help biodiesel plants cope with the rising price of soybeans and soybean oil.

There’s some noise from President Bush that he might veto the legislation, specifically because of the perks to millionaire farmers [i.e., corporate farms].  Considering President Bush never met a millionaire he didn’t like and supported the $2.5 million cap on subsidies in the last Farm Bill, that’s a little shocking.

Only time will tell what changes might be made to the bill by the time it [and if it does] reaches President Bush’s desk!