Wednesday, February 12, 2014
In the past week I received a pair of emails with some events that should be of interest to readers:
1. Slow Food Philly is hosting an outing to Wyebrook Farm on May 18th with lunch included.
2. A tantalizing postscript also mentioned that a collaborative meal with Chef Eli Kulp of Fork/High Street on Market is in the works for March.
3. On Thursday, April 10th, the Wine School of Philadelphia will conduct a class on wines of the East Coast featuring wines from Virginia, Pennsylvania, and New Jersey. I already have a few favorites in the area (here, here, and here), but I’m thinking that I will learn either some new wineries or a new appreciation for those favorites.
Posted by Kevin on 02/12 at 01:16 PM
Review, Learn Anew: Improving My Braise
Monday, February 03, 2014
My favorite cookbook series is River Cottage by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, et. al., and from that series, my favorite single book is (the imaginatively titled) Meat. The range of recipes - from Asian pork belly to turkey mole - is as impressive as the resulting food. Even better, Fearnley-Whittingstall devotes pages to specific techniques for cooking meat: grilling, slow roasting, braising, etc. Before attempting my chicken and dumplings this year, I reviewed Fearnley-Whittingstall’s comments on braising, gleaning some important lessons. The results were my best by far.
Lesson 1: The Importance of Pork Fat
Whether it is simply fatback or something more flavorful like the PorcSalt smoked bacon I used here, the underpinning of flavor and textural contribution of the fat are essential.
Lesson 2: Pay Attention to the Vegetables
I have always thought of leeks as supplanting onions in recipes. It turns out that this view is rather simplistic. They can, in fact, compliment onions beautifully. A similar thing can be said for celeriac (celery root) and parsnips. Celeriac also makes a lighter and less starchy substitute for potato.
Lesson 3: Searing Meat Separately
Essential to a flavorful braise is soundly caramelized meat. Fearnley-Whittingstall’s suggestion is to sear the meat separately in a lightly oiled pan, add to the braise, then deglaze the pan with wine and then add that to the braise. Brilliant.
Lesson 4: Simmer Does Not Mean Boil
In a lengthy explanation that I won’t reproduce here, Fearnley-Whittingstall explains the importance of a very slow simmer in cooking the meat correctly. The meat cooks long enough to dissolve tough connective tissue without the tenderer pieces becoming. He even quotes Elizabeth David. What’s not to love?
Bubble and Squeak
Thursday, January 30, 2014
I’m sure they don’t eat bubble and squeak like this in Singapore, but in theory they could, and given how awful the weather has been since around Thanksgiving, pretending to be in Singapore is highly appealing at the moment.
The “Singaporean” element in this version of the traditional British use for leftover vegetables is a curry-esque spice blend, which brightens up the potatoes and works nicely with the poached egg that makes this a meal instead of a side dish. It could be replaced with the regular curry powder of your choice. Although I prefer this with brussels sprouts, you can use cabbage or any other leafy green you can find in the markets for the next however many months this winter’s going to last.
Singaporean Bubble and Squeak with Poached Eggs
(Adapted from Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, River Cottage Veg, 2011)
2-3 potatoes, peeled and cut into large chunks
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 pint brussels sprouts, trimmed and quartered
2 tablespoons vegetable stock
1 medium onion, halved and thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 teaspoons Penzeys Singapore Seasoning, or 1 teaspoon curry powder
2 large eggs
Salt and pepper to taste
Boil the potatoes in salted water until tender, then drain and set aside while preparing the brussels sprouts.
Heat two tablespoons of oil in a nonstick pan over medium heat and add the sprouts, cut-side down, leaving them untouched long enough to brown nicely. Add the stock and cover the pan for a few more minutes until the liquid has been absorbed and the sprouts are cooked but not mushy. Remove from the pan.
Add the remaining oil to the pan and cook the onions until soft and golden but not browning, then add the garlic and Singapore seasoning and cook two more minutes. Tumble in the potatoes and lightly break up and mash them with the spatula to encourage more browning as you periodically stir the vegetables. When the potatoes are brown and crispy enough for you, add the brussels sprouts and cook a few more minutes while poaching the eggs.
Bring a few inches of water and a splash of white vinegar to a strong simmer in a small sauce pan. Crack each egg into a teacup for easier transfer, and using a slotted spoon, create a quick whirlpool before slipping the eggs from their cups into the water. Simmer gently for 3 minutes, lift them quickly out with the slotted spoon, and gently turn them onto a plate lined with paper towels to finish draining them. Snip away any stray wisps of egg white to make them prettier if you like, though I don’t bother.
Divide the bubble and squeak between two shallow bowls, and top each mound with a poached egg. Gently break open the membrane over the yolks just enough to let you salt and pepper to taste, and serve immediately.
A Soup From The Deep Freeze
Wednesday, January 29, 2014
This soup, with the exception of the garlic and leeks, came entirely from our freezer and pantry. Cod from Shore Catch via Winter Harvest, kale from our garden lazily blanched and frozen, chicken stock and our own canned tomatoes. The result was fresh tasting and light, the kale in particular standing up beautifully to freezing without losing texture or taste. Next summer I think I’ll put a bit more effort into the freezing of it, using ice cube trays to freeze in cubes perfect for adding to soup rather than an unwieldy chunk in a freezer bag.
Posted by Donna on 01/29 at 06:34 PM
Fair Food Winter Education Schedule
Sunday, January 26, 2014
Fair Food Philadelphia is offering a series of classes on various aspects of local food production with a focus on several local purveyors. Upcoming classes include chocolate and beer pairings with Jon and Kira’s Chocolates and Yards Brewery, sustainable dairy production with Mark Lopez of Wholesome Dairy Farm, and raising pastured pork and creating charcuterie with Stryker Farm and Rooster St. Provisions. You can buy tickets here.
Fair Food is promising upcoming monthly classes on a host of other topics such as wild foraging and Native American food production, and proceeds of course benefit Fair Food’s support of sustainable agriculture in our area.
Posted by Donna on 01/26 at 07:45 AM
Monday, January 20, 2014
I find quince to be utterly perplexing. Superficially, they are quite unappealing: they look like gnarled fuzzy pears and are completely inedible raw. Yet, they have a heady aroma uncooked and scented my fridge for weeks. Moreover, once cooked, they can undergo a miraculous transformation into a brightly colored godsend called membrillo (quince paste). How does this happen?
Despite these contradictions, which might ward off a more reasonable person, I purchase them at least once a year before the Headhouse Market closes up, and, hopefully, find something to make before its too late. Last year, it was an English-style christmas pudding from Nigel Slater. This year, I decided to delve into one of my Christmas presents: Yottam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi’s Jerusalem.
At first glance, one would not think that a recipe from Jerusalem would have a place on a blog about local food. However, most items were easily sourced at the local level: Tom Culton’s quince purchased from the Headhouse Market; local lamb purchased from Green Aisle Grocery; and the other vegetables were purchased through Winter Harvest. There were a few imported ingredients here, but they were dry goods or specialty items simply unavailable locally. We use items like these as an opportunity to support small growers elsewhere just as we support small growers here.
And so, we were easily able to enjoy a small piece of warm Jerusalem in cold Philadelphia.
New Year’s Brunch 2014
Sunday, January 12, 2014
I would like to pretend that the healthy tilt of our New Year’s Brunch represents an earnest start to the new year, a healthier beginning to a healthier year. More likely, it is a too-little-too-late compensation for the indulgences of the night before, when we had too much wine and too many rich foods. The previous night, we indulged in Supper’s special New Year’s Eve menu. It was fantastic (as always), but as the name implies, a special meal for a special occasion. One can’t eat like that everyday.
So here we have buckwheat crepes, omelettes, yogurt, and home-cured salmon as a counterweight to the gluttony that closed 2013. The buckwheat flour was locally grown and milled and purchased from the Fair Food Farmstand. The eggs, yogurt, and scallions are courtesy of Winter Harvest. Though the salmon was not local, it was sustainably raised, and the good people of Ippolito’s were able to recommend the best particular fillet for curing.
Salt-curing fish is surprisingly easy - as long as you have some suitably sized containers and fridge space. I follow Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s method from Fish. Though the original recipe is for trout, as he notes, it can be applied to most any oily fish. In the past, I would flavor it as Hugh does, with fresh dill. However, that didn’t seem the right flavor for January 1st, so I mixed rye berries into the curing mix instead. Unfortunately, the rye flavor was barely discernible. I suppose that I need to treat the rye berries before adding them to the curing mix (salt and sugar) - perhaps grinding them in a mortar and pestle or soaking them. Even without the rye flavor, the fish was well worth it and gave me the illusion of having made up for my decadent New Year’s Eve meal. And that’s all the excuse I need.
Warm Food for Cold Days
Sunday, December 29, 2013
The intervening days between Christmas and New Years’ can be long on time, short on daylight, and (usually) low in temperature. All of this, of course, means that we tend to spend mornings with newspapers, Christmas music, cappuccino, and things warm from the oven. Given the prevalence of heavy savory dishes and even heavier desserts during the holiday season, we try to make our morning pastry as healthy as possible. To do that, we rely heavily on the Babycakes cookbooks (here and here). Erin McKenna’s recipes are gluten free, eschew refined sugar, and frequently use spelt flour. In short, Erin lets us feel like we have having our cake and eating it, too.
Adapted from this scone recipe.
Apple Maple Walnut Scones
2 cups whole spelt flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup coconut oil
1/3 cup maple syrup
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
1 cup diced apple
1/2 cup chopped walnuts
1. Preheat the oven to 375 and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. In a large mixing bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, salt, and walnuts. Stir in the syrup and oil. Add enough hot water to form a batter. Next, fold in the apples.
2. Scoop 1/4 cup mounds of batter onto the lined baking sheet. Bake on the center rack for 10 minutes, rotate, and then bake for another 10 minutes. Let them cool - just not, heaven forbid, completely.
Note: Working with coconut oil can be tricky, as it solidifies at room temperature. I heat the jar in extremely hot water as I preheat the oven and gather the other ingredients. This ensures I have enough liquid oil when I need to add it to the batter. I also make sure that the hot water I add to the batter is quite hot and work as quickly as I can.
Mixed Mushroom Tart for the Holidays
Sunday, December 22, 2013
This tart of mixed, flavorful local mushrooms was the vegetarian main course at Thanksgiving this year, although you could really make it year-round. It would be lovely as a make-ahead summer brunch item, for example.
I think the variety of textures that this combination of mushrooms offers is ideal, but it would also be good with plain cremini mushrooms, if that’s all you have. If you use portobellos, just be sure to remove the dark gills first, as they tend to turn everything unpleasantly black.
(Adapted from Michael Ruhlman, Ratio, 2009)
9 ounces unbleached all-purpose flour
1 1/2 sticks cold unsalted butter, in small pieces
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
2-3 ounces ice water
4 tablespoons olive oil
2 yellow onions, thinly sliced
8 ounces mushrooms, preferably a combination of maitake, shiitake and oyster, cleaned and roughly torn
1 cup half and half
2 large eggs
1/2 teaspoon salt
Several grinds each of fresh nutmeg and black pepper
1/4 cup grated Gruyere cheese
Several sprigs of fresh thyme
Combine the flour and salt in a mixing bowl, and work in the butter with a pastry blender or your fingers until no pieces are larger than a pea. Gently mix in the water a bit at a time, just until the dough holds together. Shape the dough into a disk, wrap tightly in plastic wrap or a zip-top bag, and refrigerate an hour or more.
Preheat the oven to 325 F. Roll out the dough on a lightly floured surface to fit a 9-inch tart pan, and press into the pan, cutting away any excess. Cover the surface with a layer of foil or parchment paper, and fill with rice or pie weights to prevent buckling. Bake for 20 minutes, then remove the weights and bake 15-20 more minutes, until golden brown.
In a skillet, heat two tablespoons of the oil over medium heat and cook down the onions until dark gold. Spread them evenly in the bottom of the baked tart shell. Raise the heat under the pan slightly, add the remaining oil, and toss in the mushrooms, sautéing until any liquid has evaporated and the surfaces are gold and crisp in spots. Top the onion layer with enough mushrooms to mostly fill the tart shell, setting aside any extra for another use.
In a large liquid measuring cup, whisk together the half and half, eggs, salt, nutmeg and pepper, and gently pour into the tart. Sprinkle the top with the cheese and the thyme leaves stripped off the stems.Set the tart pan onto a rimmed cookie sheet to catch any drips, and bake at 325 F until the custard has just set (a little bit of jiggle in the very middle is fine) and the top has browned nicely, around 30 minutes. Cool at least to warm room temperature before serving.
Winter Harvest Comes Through (Again)
Saturday, December 14, 2013
In the early years of our eating local, when we wanted an antidote to rich, heavy holiday meals and even the local greens were dwindling, we’d have little choice but to buy a giant pack of French green beans from Whole Foods and call it dinner. No more.
Winter Harvest is full of opportunities to make a light, refreshing meal that even tastes a bit like summer. Shore Catch is one of those “never thought I’d see it” items to appear on the Winter Harvest product list - locally and sustainably caught seafood. It was hard to mess up the beautiful piece of sushi grade Ahi tuna that came in our order this week, but we took no chances and made a simple tartare - hardly a recipe with one pound tuna, three tablespoons each of olive oil and lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste. We added scallions and parsley, also from our order, and ate it with a potato pancake made with Savoie Organic Farm’s wonderful Kennebecs.
Market Highlights: Headhouse Market December 8th
Sunday, December 08, 2013
The snowy day didn’t deter shoppers or vendors at the Headhouse Square Farmers Market. Plenty of seasonal produce was still available, with Weaver’s Way, Beechwood Orchards, Queens Farm and Three Springs Fruit Farm offering greens, root vegetables, cabbages, brussels sprouts, winter squash, mushrooms, garlic, apples, and of course cider. There was no lack of dairy, meat, fish, chocolate or prepared foods either, with Birchrun Hills, Hillacres Pride, Paradocx Vineyard, John and Kira’s, Market Day Canele, Talula’s Table, Ric’s Breads, Otolith Sustainable Seafood, Wildflour Bakery, Good Spoon Soups, and Green Aisle Grocery all present. The market is scheduled to run for two more Sundays, so it’s well worth a visit, despite the cold.
Posted by Donna on 12/08 at 11:12 AM
Our Dirty Little Secret
Wednesday, December 04, 2013
The guests at our annual holiday party regularly gobble up the dried figs and goat cheese wrapped in prosciutto, made with figs from our community garden a block away. Our dried pepper flakes, also from the garden, inspire those who received them as gifts to demand a fresh supply. How do we manage to preserve all that fresh, local produce in a form that people actually want to consume rather than store away as emergency rations? The dehydrator is our dirty little secret.
I’ll admit, I felt more than a bit defeated when we decided to buy a dehydrator. I had researched and tried every drying method available to us in a tiny city house and a patio with intermittent sunlight, and had failed in everything but the random herb. When my husband drew the line at drying tomatoes on the dashboard of the car (this method does exist and someday I will test it!) I decided to try a dehydrator. Unable to find any friend or family member who still had one lying around from their “As Seen On TV” heyday 20 years ago, we headed to Fantes. From what we had read in consumer reviews, we wanted a top mounted fan to prevent dripping into the mechanisms and digital controls to allow for precise temperature setting depending on what you are drying.
We took home a Nesco Gardenmaster Pro Digital dehydrator, and in a fit of guilt over the price I immediately set out to dry the remainder of two CSA boxes and a basket of produce from our garden plot before we left for a three week trip to Europe. Zucchini chips sprinkled with Old Bay were so delicious they barely made it onto the plane with us. Plum and cherry tomatoes came out a vibrant red and pleasantly chewy. Hot peppers were the easiest - popped in whole and ground in the food processor later. Skins from peeled ginger made a surprisingly strong tea. I estimated that we made up the difference in what we paid for the dehydrator that first summer, some of it using produce that might otherwise have gone to waste.
We haven’t had complete success. I was excited to try to replicate the sweet dried peppers my mother remembered my grandfather hanging from the garage rafters, but the results were tough and mostly skin. Large plum tomatoes are best left to oven roasting on a low temperature and preserving in olive oil.
Most herbs do as well or better hanging to dry, so long as you’ve got the time. And the celery was just… confusing. But anything else we’ve made has easily surpassed any store bought version in taste, not to mention of course the added bonus of being made with local produce. We’re going to try local cranberries next, if we can figure out a way to sweeten them slightly first, and haven’t even had a chance to try our hand at the many jerky and dried fish products that are possible as well.
All that and no tomatoes on the dashboard.
Posted by Donna on 12/04 at 01:57 PM
A Holiday Fruit Cake (not Fruitcake)
Saturday, November 30, 2013
As should be pretty clear by now, quinces are one of my favorite fall/winter fruits, and since they’re sadly a bit of a luxury to find, I generally mix them with apples to stretch them further, and because they get along so well together, as in this fragrant and holiday-appropriate cake. If you don’t care for or can’t find quinces, you can make the cake with just apples and apple butter, as the original recipe did, and it will also be great.
If you don’t make your own quince jam, you can often find it in Mediterranean or Middle Eastern markets. More likely, you’ll instead be able to find the dried and pressed Spanish version, dulce de membrillo, at your local cheese shop, which will work just fine once loosened back up with a bit of extra liquid.
Apple-Quince Bundt Cake
(Adapted from Dorie Greenspan, Baking: From My Home to Yours, 2006)
1 large quince, or 1/2 cup golden raisins
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon ground ginger
1/4 teaspoon salt
10 tablespoons unsalted butter, slightly softened
1 1/2 cups granulated sugar
2 large eggs
1 cup quince jam, or quince paste gently heated with enough water to loosen to a jam-like consistency
2 tart-sweet apples, peeled, cored and grated
1 cup hazelnuts, toasted, skinned and roughly chopped
1/3 cup powdered sugar
2-3 tablespoons apple cider or milk
If using the quince, peel and core it, then chop it into four or so large pieces. Poach the quince in just enough water to cover until it has changed color (anywhere from buttery-yellow to salmon, depending on the variety) and is tender when pierced with a sharp knife. Drain off the liquid, chop the quince into small dice, and set aside.
Preheat the oven to 350F, and butter and flour a large (12-cup) bundt pan.
Whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger and salt.
Place the butter and sugar into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, and cream together until smooth and thick. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well between additions, then beat in the quince jam at lower speed. Mix in the grated apple, followed by the dry ingredients, mixing only until incorporated. Fold in the diced quince or raisins and the hazelnuts.
Spoon the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top. Bake for 50-60 minutes, until the top is golden and springy, and a cake tester inserted near the center comes out clean. Cool on a rack for 5 minutes, then unmold the cake and cool completely.
To glaze the cake, mix just enough cider or milk into the powdered sugar to make a thick but free-flowing icing. Drizzle the icing evenly over the cake, letting it run down the sides. Let the icing firm up before slicing the cake.
Leftovers keep well in an airtight container for 2-3 days, although it’s best to glaze it the same day you serve it.
Local Holiday Shopping
Friday, November 29, 2013
If you’re heading out to shop for holiday gifts this weekend, don’t forget to stop in and visit one of our local food purveyors. In addition to an incredible selection of local produce, meat and dairy, the choices below also offer gift worthy preserved foods, ingredients to stock a terrific food basket, even chocolates and candies beautifully packaged and ready to give. Try not to eat them on the way home.
Fair Food Farmstand
The Fair Food Farmstand in Reading Terminal Market carries many preserves, dried fruit and vegetables and candies made from local products. Create a gift basket from Tait Farm Foods, offering jars of blackberry and cherry jams, fig and honey conserve, rhubarb chutney, tomato bruschetta and more. Or put together ready to make soup jars with dried beans from Cayuga Pure Organics or a selection of local flours from Daisy Organics for bakers. Fair Food also carries John & Kira’s Chocolates, flavored with ingredients from local and urban farms.
Green Aisle Grocery
Head to Green Aisle on East Passyunk Avenue for a huge array of their own brand of preserves, chutneys, pickles and nut butters made in small batches featuring produce from local farms. Current offerings include Apple Vanilla Ginger Chutney, Five Spice Beets and Sriracha Carrots. They can also put together an impressive gift box if you need help.
Obviously we think of Greensgrow for their produce and nursery, but they also carry gift items like cheese, hot sauce, and preserved food. Either they make the items themselves, or they come from farmers Greensgrow knows and trusts. In addition, over the next month Greensgrow is hosting a Holiday Bazaar featuring local artists. So even if it you can’t find the perfect local food gift, you may still be able find a perfect local gift.
Posted by Donna on 11/29 at 11:30 AM
Thursday, November 14, 2013
On Friday, October 18th the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society held Pheast, its second annual celebration of the growers who contribute to the City Harvest program. Held in the PHS warehouse at the Navy Yard, Pheast brought together farmers, chefs and purveyors to honor the diversity of our local food production.
Posted by Kevin on 11/14 at 10:04 PM