Philly Wine Week 2016

Sunday, April 03, 2016


Philadelphia Wine Week 2016 has officially begun.  And the only thing that makes me happier than the proliferation of “natural” wines at this year’s offerings is the proliferation of local wines.  Here’s what’s going in local wines:

- On Monday, Robert Burke of Karamoor Estate (Ft. Washington, PA) will be at Martha.
- On Wednesday, Panorama is hosting a “Blind Challenge” of Pennsylvania wines.  Included will be one my personal favorites: Galen Glen.  Also, Pinot Boutique is hosting a local wine, cheese, chocolate, and (why not?) bacon jams tasting.  Heritage will have Tom Sharko of Alba Vineyard, Kevin Robinson of Karamoor Estate, and Richard Heritage of Heritage Vineyards.  However, the big local wine event of the night (and week, really) is a wine dinner with Anthony Vietri of Va La Vineyards at Martha.  It was already sold out when I called last week, but I have my fingers crossed for a cancellation or two.
- On Thursday, Martha is again hosting a Meet the Winemaker event, this time with Rich Heritage and Sean Comninos of Heritage Vineyards.
- On Friday, Pino Boutique is hosting a Local vs. Non-Local Wine Event.
- On Saturday, Jet Wine Bar is hosting an interesting combination of ornithology and enology.  Pennsylvania Birds and Wine is from 3 to 5.
- On Sunday April 10th, Long Island’s Wolffer Estate will be featured in a wine dinner at Fork.  Wolffer is one of the finest wineries in an area packed with them.  If you have any interest in Long Island wine, this one is not to be missed. 
- Finally, Paris Wine Bar, which features Pennsylvania wines, is running special events all week. 

For additional information, reservations, and tickets, go to Philadelphia Wine Week

Posted by Kevin on 04/03 at 12:16 PM

    Pig School at Wyebrook

    Friday, March 25, 2016


    Having long considered Wyebrook’s meat to be some of the best in the Philadelphia area, not to mention the gorgeous setting of its market and restaurant, I wasn’t sure what more Wyebrook could do to impress me.  So, while I attended the pig butchering class on Saturday, March 19th with enthusiasm, I did so only hoping it would make me a (slightly) better cook.  Yes, it did that (I think), but I also came away with three more reasons to love Wyebrook.

    First, at the outset of the class, owner Dean Carlson explained the farming practices.  I was particularly impressed with the pasturing of their pigs and their varied diet.  While the animals are fed, they are permitting to roam a great deal of the property and forage for additional food. By the time the pigs are slaughtered, they are more mature and significantly larger than the “industry standard.”  These practices account for the outstanding quality of their pork.

    Second, head butcher Alexi Alejandro was a gracious teacher.  As he systematically butchered a side of pork (literally, one half of a pig), he explained each of the cuts as well as cooking techniques and the various terms.  One of the simplest but most helpful things he emphasized was the optimal internal temperature for cooking pork (145 degrees plus resting time).  This might actually prevent me from overcooking pork in the future…maybe.

    Third, at the conclusion of the class was a dinner featuring the various cuts of pork.  Every dish was outstanding - handmade rigatoni with pork ragu, pork pate, sausages, pork belly, and loin.  I don’t know if this is a direct consequence of bringing Russet’s chef/owner Andrew Wood onboard as Executive Chef, but I would guess so.  The kitchen paid as much attention to our dinner as Alexi paid to us, his students. 

    Wyebrook offers this and other classes (including one on charcuterie, which I am eager to attend) throughout the year.  Look for announcements via their mailing list or on their website


    Posted by Kevin on 03/25 at 06:15 PM

    Some Green Amid The Gray

    Sunday, March 13, 2016

    Long after the allure of simmered stews, mashed root vegetables, and gratins has worn thin, there are still weeks (months?) to go before the farmers’ markets open.  In the meantime, much of the greens we eat are either hydroponic bibb lettuce or microgreens.  This is not a complaint about either; I just want a bit more variety.  For the past few weeks we’ve been enjoying arugula from the Honey Brook Harvest Collective, which we get through Philly Foodworks.  Not content with just another green for salads, I decided to make it into pesto.  After all, is there any better reminder of summer?

    The following is based on a recipe found in Pasta, a cookbook I strongly recommend if you are interested in refining your pasta dishes.  The recipes are sequenced in order of difficulty, and in every recipe it stresses the importance of balance and the marriage of shape to pasta sauce (something I am only now learning to appreciate).  Originally, the recipe called for both walnuts and pine nuts, but in keeping this as local as possible, I used only walnuts.  Further, I used Valley Shepherd Creamery’s Hunterdon for the cheese.  Last, I used Vesper Brothers Whole Wheat Penne. 


    Arugula Pesto and Whole Wheat Pasta
    3 oz. walnuts
    2 bunches (approximately 4 oz.) arugula, washed and dried
    1 small garlic clove
    2/3 cup olive oil
    2 oz. grated Valley Shepherd Hunterdon
    1 lb. whole wheat penne
    6-8 sun-dried tomatoes, cut into thin strips

    Scatter the walnuts on a baking sheet and toast them in a 300 degree oven for ten minutes.  After the walnuts have cooled, place them and the garlic, arugula, and olive oil in a food processor and process until smooth and pour into a large mixing bowl.  Stir in the cheese until well combined and allow to sit for at least 1 hour. 

    Cook the pasta according to the package directions.  Drain and reserve 1 cup of the cooking water.  Add the pasta to the pesto and stir to combine, use some of the pasta to thin the pesto if necessary to evenly coat the pasta. Top with the sun-dried tomatoes.

    A Note About The Olive Oil: I find the amount of olive oil in a pesto to be extremely subjective, and it really is a matter of preference.  To be honest, I don’t really measure it out.  I simply add it to the food processor until I have just the creamy consistency I want and then I immediately stop.  A pesto that leaves some oil pooled at the bottom of the pasta dish is, to me, too oily. 

    Posted by Kevin on 03/13 at 08:35 AM

    The Home Stretch

    Wednesday, March 02, 2016


    As we begin the last month or two before spring vegetables start appearing and the seasonal farmers’ markets begin again, it helps to remember the diversity of winter produce still available through local buying clubs.  Last night’s dinner of roasted beets and cauliflower mixed with parsley, Philly Bread’s Porridge Loaf and Meadowset Farms’ Last Straw sheep’s milk cheese came entirely from Philly Foodworks and Winter Harvest. 

    Posted by Donna on 03/02 at 08:18 PM

      Not Your Mother’s Frozen Vegetables

      Sunday, February 28, 2016


      While we are incredibly lucky to have so many options for local produce in midwinter, it can get a bit depressing and monotonous right around this time of year.  Enter locally frozen foods.  Both Winter Harvest and Philly Foodworks regularly carry a selection of locally grown and frozen fruits and vegetables for those of us missing the variety of summer.  In the dish above, we sauteed some frozen peppers as a base for arepas with frozen corn, both from Philly Foodworks.  A few nights later, a bag of frozen peas from Winter Harvest made a perfect mushy pea side dish for grilled Hillacres Pride Kielbasa.  Combine these options with the many vegetables still available fresh, and we all might just make it to spring.

      Posted by Donna on 02/28 at 11:15 AM

      Another Happy Accident

      Wednesday, February 10, 2016


      The giant wheel of brie above is what remains of the third time we’ve accidentally ordered more than we’d intended from Winter Harvest.  The first time brought us a 5 pound tub of Pequea Valley yogurt, the second a 20 pound bag of Daisy Flour.  It took some work and planning, but we used every bit of both of them, and learned some new recipes in the process.  The Buttercup Brie from Cherry Grove Farm shouldn’t require much work to polish off.  It’s rich and creamy with a pleasantly edible rind that made a perfect lunch with pickles and crackers and a lovely dessert with some fig jam.  Bob Pierson of Farm To City tells us it can be frozen, but I don’t think it will last that long.

      Posted by Donna on 02/10 at 04:50 PM

        A Midwinter’s Day in the Lehigh Valley

        Sunday, February 07, 2016

        Between the melting mounds of old, dirty snow and the perpetual construction in the neighborhood, we had a strong urge to get out of the city yesterday.  So, we made a return trip to of our favorite local wineries: Pinnacle Ridge and Galen Glen, both in the Lehigh Valley.  As Craig Laban noted in his 2014 article, Lehigh Valley white wines are remarkable, but Pinot Noir is also served well by the cooler climate.  On this trip, however, we weren’t so much sampling recent vintages as a stocking our wine cellar.  (Please note that by “wine cellar,” I simply mean a cleared out space space on the floor and shelves of our basement pantry, which remains a fairly steady temperature year-round.)  Tasting the wines with that specific intent altered the experience.  Rather than deciding which wines I liked best, I was deciding which wines I liked that were also most versatile. 


        From Pinnacle Ridge, we brought back the Cabernet Franc and Chardonnay.  The Cabernet Franc has a nice, light mouthfeel and herbal, peppery taste that is slightly tannic.  While the tannins could soften over time, I don’t think it will be hanging around that long.  Unusual for us, we also picked up two bottles of the Chardonnay - the oaked one, mind you, and not the one fermented in stainless steel tanks.  Over the winter, I found myself wanting a glass of oaked Chardonnay along with roasted whitefish or chicken.  It may be the presence of butter in those dishes, or my own association of butter and oaked Chardonnay, but eating them without the wine was feeling incomplete.

        From Galen Glen, we brought home a full case, eight bottles of which are the Stone Cellar Gruner Veltliner.  I’ve written about this wine on several occasions before, so there isn’t much new that I can say about it.  It’s delicious, fragrant, and beautifully balanced, and I can’t imagine it not improving any food it’s paired with.  It’s also complex enough that I can imagine drinking eight bottles without tiring of it.  We also brought home two bottles of the Stone Cellar Gewurztraminer and two of the Stone Cellar Riesling.  The Gewurztraminer has a heavily floral nose and tastes of tropical fruit.  I imagine pairing it with curries or spicy food quite easily.  The Riesling is bracingly acidic, and it somehow manages to evoke most of the citrus fruits in a single glass.  If I could ever convince the relatives to come here for Thanksgiving, this would be the wine I would serve, but this wine is so refreshing, it will work with just about anything. 


        Posted by Kevin on 02/07 at 04:24 PM

        Garden Visit: Longwood Gardens

        Wednesday, February 03, 2016


        Last Saturday, as the snow in town grew increasingly dirty and slushy, we decided to take a drive out to visit Longwood Gardens.  This time of year the garden features a huge orchid display in their greenhouses, but we skipped all that, as we’ve done in visits in every season, and headed straight for the Meadow Garden.  Opened in June 2014, the Meadow Garden covers 86 acres with native plants, trails and scenic vistas.  It was a virtual winter wonderland, still covered in snow and bordered by a small frozen lake and wetlands.  In previous visits, we’ve seen a succession of native blooms, vibrant fall leaves and evidence of attention to pollinators and native bird habitat everywhere.  In a garden known for its formality and pageantry, the Meadow Garden is an unexpectedly beautiful change of course.


        For those of you who, like us, still need a little bit of green around this time of year, the garden shop had an impressive stock of succulents and small indoor plants grown by Gary’s Specialty Plants in nearby Lancaster County.  Each one was labelled with light and moisture requirements, so I’m hoping these little guys have a better shot than my previous attempts at succulent planting.


        Posted by Donna on 02/03 at 03:43 PM

          Cape May Sea Salt Available in Philly

          Sunday, January 31, 2016


          A heads up for those readers who had asked where to find Cape May Sea Salt here in Philly - both Green Aisle Grocery and Ippolito’s Seafood now carry it.  Green Aisle, of course, is full of local and regional goodness, but it was also terrific to see it in a place like Ippolito’s that doesn’t focus exclusively on locality. 

          Posted by Donna on 01/31 at 02:21 PM

            When There’s Fire, There Should Be Smoke

            Monday, January 11, 2016


            Now that the weather finally resembles winter, I smell fires going in fireplaces nearly every night.  I, in turn, light our fireplace every chance I get, and settle onto the couch with something comforting and steaming.  It’s safe to say that if I am in the house, I am in front of the fireplace. 

            It is, perhaps, all of that time around a fire that makes me crave smokiness in my food.  Coupling that with a strong desire to ease off of meat after the holidays, I opted for this frittata from Yotam Ottolenghi as breakfast one recent morning.

            In this case, the smokiness comes from the scamorza and paprika.  Be sure to sufficiently brown the cauliflower before adding the egg mixture; it makes all the difference in the flavor.  Neither should you eliminate the chives if you can help it; they provide a nice contrast both in taste and appearance.  It was easy to make with local ingredients: I substituted smoked gouda for the scamorza and cheddar and yogurt for the creme fraiche.  Since this was only for the two of us, I cut everything in half (but used four smallish eggs) and split everything between two small cast-iron skillets.  Consequently, I cut the cooking time in the oven to approximately six minutes. 

            Posted by Kevin on 01/11 at 05:55 PM

            Eat This Baby For Breakfast

            Wednesday, January 06, 2016


            I’m almost two years late to the Dutch Baby Craze, and I have no idea why I waited so long to try one after seeing these skillet size pancakes puffing up all over food blogs and in the NYT Food section.  They couldn’t be easier to make, and the popover effect both looks cool and creates lovely browned edges and pools of melted butter.  I followed this recipe from The Kitchn, swapping out the all purpose flour with whole wheat from Daisy Organic Flours.  It was still light and wonderfully chewy - I wouldn’t have known it was whole wheat flour if I hadn’t made it myself.

            Posted by Donna on 01/06 at 03:47 PM

            Locally Made Traditional Bangers

            Sunday, January 03, 2016


            We found Stryker Farm’s Irish Style Bangers at the Fair Food Farmstand, and made them here as God intended them - with mashed potatoes and onion gravy, along with the remaining bottles of Troeg’s Mad Elf and Victory Winter Cheers left over from a recent holiday party.  It was a very Happy New Year.

            Posted by Donna on 01/03 at 03:23 PM

              Local Bitters for the Holidays

              Friday, December 04, 2015


              We just got back from the member preview of Bartram’s Garden’s Holiday Greens Sale, where we picked up armfuls of lovely holly and other evergreens along with a jar of Bartram’s Bitters.  The bitters are made locally from John Bartram’s own recipe by Philadelphia Distilling and Fair Food Philly.  The Greens Sale runs tomorrow from 10-3, promising wreaths and centerpieces as well, along with various artisan vendors. 

              Posted by Donna on 12/04 at 07:53 PM

              A Bumper Crop .... of Limes

              Monday, November 30, 2015


              So these limes above are ripe - picked straight off our little indoor/outdoor tree just yesterday.  Before this crop of eight beautiful limes, we thought a ripe lime was green.  Only after picking the first one when it seemed a perfect size and still a lovely dark green, but nonetheless under ripe, and doing a bit of research, did we learn that most lime varieties are yellowish when ripe but are harvested before ripening and do not continue to do so once picked.  It reminded me once again of the compromises we accept when we purchase produce that is packed and shipped long distances.  We may not all be able to grow limes in our homes, although I would highly recommend it, but we can refuse to accept far flung inferior imports of those crops we can and do grow here. 

              Posted by Donna on 11/30 at 04:13 PM

                A Panful of Broiled Goodness

                Wednesday, November 18, 2015


                All of the ingredients for this Crusty Broiled Cod with Littlenecks and Chouriço can be found at the Headhouse Farmers’ Market, so there’s no excuse not to make this right away.  I was excited when I first saw the recipe in the Times Food section, as we’ve been underwhelmed with other baked fish recipes and I thought the broiler might solve the persistent problem of wet, mushy fillets.  The cod came succulent and flavorful with the addition of the parsley, garlic and panko topping, along with the lovely pan juices created by just a bit of wine, the juice of the clams and the lemons.  Since La Divisa Meats was out of their two sausages closest to the Portuguese Chouriço called for, we used Mexican Chorizo from Talula’s Table and were thrilled with the way they crisped up slightly and added smoke and spice to the dish.  We’ll be making this every week Shore Catch doesn’t run out of fish.  Don’t forget a baguette.

                Posted by Donna on 11/18 at 04:55 PM

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