A Mother’s Day Picnic
Tuesday, May 12, 2015
For the third year running, we’ve brought our Moms (and Dad) to a local winery for Mother’s Day, packing a lunch bought a few hours earlier at the Headhouse Farmers’ Market. This year was Bellview Winery, located just a few minutes from my own grandmother’s farm. On our table was a Market Day Canele tart with mushrooms and fiddlehead ferns, Fat Cat cheese from Birchrun Hills, flatbreads and baguettes from Wildflour Bakery and fennel onion marmalade from Green Aisle Grocery. The tastings were moved outside, and we all ate and drank with a lovely view of the vines growing nearby. We brought home a bottle of Blaufrankisch, an unusual variety for the area, and two happy Moms.
Posted by Donna on 05/12 at 06:36 PM
Market Highlights: Headhouse Market May 3rd
Tuesday, May 05, 2015
The first Headhouse Farmers’ Market of the season was Sunday, and most regular vendors were already in attendance. No Tom Culton this year, as he was reportedly not invited back, but plenty of others with a surprising variety of produce for so early in the year. Blooming Glen had a green that was new to me - kale raab, the tops of overwintered kale plants.
Longview Flower Farm had a selection of herbs as well as bouquets of gorgeous deep purple tulips and lilac. Weavers Way brought fiddlehead ferns and ramps, freshly foraged. Several farmers brought seedlings, such as tomatoes and peppers from Savoie Organic Farm and Asian squash varieties from Queens Farm. Most promised more seedlings next week, so there’s plenty of time to plant that garden.
And asparagus? We got ours from a quickly dwindling basket at Three Springs Fruit Farm, but it looked like A.T. Buzby Farm had them as well.
Posted by Donna on 05/05 at 05:17 PM
A Bike Share Grows In Philly
Wednesday, April 29, 2015
Don’t worry, this one will get around to local food. On Sunday we took our first ride on Indego, Philadelphia’s brand new bike sharing program. We signed up online, picked up our bikes at the station a block from our house, and headed out. Since it was our first ride, and neither of us are by any means veteran city riders, we went straight to the Delaware River Trail that leads past the new Washington Avenue Green and continues south. We rode down to check out the construction of Pier 68, a new park featuring fishing and a sloping lawn for picnicking, due to open later this summer.
The bikes were smartly designed, solidly built, easy to check out and return and absurdly fun to ride.
And the local food? I don’t know if it was because I had just read Marie Viljoen describe them on her blog 66 Square Feet or our new vantage point from the bikes, but I spotted several patches of japanese knotweed growing along the trail. According to Viljoen, local forager David Siller and others, the invasive knotweed has a sour, lemony taste similar to rhubarb. We might just have to return and fill those handy baskets.
First Spring Planting
Sunday, April 26, 2015
It felt like it would never come, but a few weeks ago we were finally able to plant the first of our spring crops. For the last few years, before we put a single seed or seedling in the ground, we prepare each plot by digging a trench, loosening the soil with a claw, sprinkling in compost, and filling up the trench with the soil from the next.
The whole process doesn’t take long, given our tiny plots, and leaves the soil so beautifully aerated that we have to be careful not to step too heavily on them.
After the particularly hard winters, in our garden planted atop an old elementary school parking lot, we always dig up lots of debris. This was the biggest yet.
Our strawberry patch came with the plot five years ago, so it was time for new plants. We gave these plenty of room for runners, and planted lemongrass in between.
Fava beans, by far the most satisfying spring plant for its early germination, are popping up all over the garden.
Our wintered over spinach was ready for picking, and our garlic is growing nicely.
We finished the planting with carrots, lettuce, beets and tatsoi. By next week it should be safe to plant the tomatoes, just in time for the opening of Headhouse Farmers’ Market on Sunday.
Philly Farm and Food Fest 2015
Monday, April 13, 2015
The fourth annual Philly Farm and Food Fest was held yesterday at the Philadelphia Convention Center. With well over one hundred exhibitors, seventeen scheduled classes and forums and a local libations lounge, the Fest is almost too big to see everything in a few hours. We’ve been coming since the first year it was open to the public, and we’ve yet to leave without learning about some new local food we didn’t know about. Some highlights and new discoveries:
Kensington has its very own flower farm - Jig-Bee offers a Flower CSA, with beautiful bouquets delivered to various pickup locations.
I have to say that I’ve been gleefully amazed at the huge popularity and growth of the Fest, but I guess I should have expected it. You can come for the dozens of delicious samples. You can come to do your grocery or garden shopping. You can come to learn a new skill. You can come to drink. Who wouldn’t be happy? Seriously, come next year.
Posted by Donna on 04/13 at 03:28 PM
Announcements as We Wait for Things to Grow
Sunday, April 05, 2015
As we go about prepping our garden plot, starting seeds, and taking a much-needed vacation, I wanted to post just a couple of announcements in case you missed them.
One, the Philly Farm and Food Fest will be next Sunday, April 12th. from 11-4 at the Convention Center. Tickets are $20, $10 extra for admission to the Local Libations Lounge, and $45 for VIP tickets for entrance to the Preview Hour at 10 AM and other goodies. It’s a perfect taste of what’s to come.
Two, even though it is officially Spring, we are still weeks and months from the opening of most farmers’ markets around the city. In the meantime, Farm to City’s Winter Harvest Buying Club is still our primary source of food from November to May. With a long and varied list of products and numerous convenient pick-up locations, it is the easiest way to keep stocked in the cold months. There are still two weeks left in the 2014-15 season, so open your account and get ordering.
In the meantime, keep thinking green and warm. Happy Easter.
Posted by Kevin on 04/05 at 09:12 AM
Teach a Man to Bake
Monday, March 23, 2015
I’ve already written about my wonderful experience with Pete Merzbacher of Philly Muffin and the Fair Food Farmstand’s Food School. I won’t repeat (much) of what I said there other than this one point: baking, real baking, with local flour is all about the feel of the dough - measurements be damned.
This was a point that Samuel Fromartz first clued me into in his book, but Pete was able to communicate that with actual dough in front of him, dough that I could touch. The tactile advantage of Pete’s lesson, in turn, gave me the confidence to pursue this on my own. It has allowed me to improve my baking overall and even apply this to wildly divergent recipes.
Such was the case with this soda bread. Although forewarned in the recipe (found here), I ended up using far more flour than was originally called for. In the past, I would have baked the wet, gloppy mess I had rather than push on with the additional flour until I achieved a better texture. This could easily have been a flat, dense brick. Thanks to Pete, it was anything but.
Posted by Kevin on 03/23 at 05:50 PM
It’s Not Snowing at the Flower Show
Thursday, March 05, 2015
For those of you who, like me, depend on the PHS Flower Show to remind them that someday soon spring will come, today might be the perfect day to visit. The show was wonderfully uncrowded, and we walked around with cups of PHS Horticulture Cider, brewed locally by Wyndridge Farm, and popcorn. Did I mention there were no crowds? A couple other local highlights:
The W.B. Saul High School of Agricultural Sciences, who run the Henry Got Crops CSA with Weaver’s Way, had an Alice in Wonderland theme to this year’s display that featured a funky fountain.
And our very own elevated park has a name - Rail Park. Construction on the first phase begins this year.
Posted by Donna on 03/05 at 04:26 PM
Loafing in School
Sunday, March 01, 2015
Two hours; two beers; two pounds of freshly milled flour; one sourdough starter; more cheese, pizza and focaccia than I could eat; and a lot of knowledge. It only cost me $35, but I think I ate, drank, and learned a lot more than the price I paid.
On Wednesday, I attended the Fair Food Farmstand’s “Food School” class dedicated to sourdough bread baking with Philly Muffin’s Pete Merzbacher. Although I have been baking sourdough bread for some time, I still came away from this having learned some very important things that have already improved my break baking:
- The tight, even “crumb” of a typical sandwich loaf or the airy, irregular crumb of a ciabatta are functions of gluten development. The more developed the gluten is, the more uniform the crumb.
- My greatest weakness in bread baking, loaves that spread out rather than spring up, is most likely a result of the dough being too wet.
- Because a home oven loses so much heat when the door is opened, preheat your oven higher than the temperature at which you are going to bake. Then, reset the temperature once you have actually put the bread in the oven.
Pete is not a believer in using spray bottles or pans of water to “steam” dough in home ovens. Pete is a believer in baking in a cast iron pot (a la Jim Lahey’s no-knead method). The pot serves two important functions. One, related to the previous point, it will maintain a consistent heat for your bread. Two, by trapping steam released from the dough as it bakes, it will function in very much the same way as a professional baking oven that injects steam. In fact, Pete said that while he can easily tell a loaf baked in a home oven using a pan of water as compared to a professional oven, he would be hard-pressed to do so when comparing a loaf baked in a cast iron pot as compared to a professional oven.
Throughout the class, the good people of the Fair Food Farmstand plied us with PBC beer and tons of local cheese with pizzas and focaccia at the end. Pete was personable and patient with a class of students with extremely varied levels of experience. Most importantly, he tolerated my incessant questioning about my own issues and about using local grains. The sourdough starter came from his own bakery, as did the whole-grain flour he had milled himself that day.
If you have any interest bread baking, I can’t recommend a class with Pete highly enough. The same goes for anything hosted by the Fair Food Farmstand. I feel very lucky to have had such good and generous people share their knowledge - and, of course, food.
Posted by Kevin on 03/01 at 05:51 PM
Cod and Potato Ravioli
Sunday, February 22, 2015
Bear with us on this one. We were looking for a filling for ravioli that wasn’t ricotta, but still had a creamy texture that could incorporate another ingredient. The cod was leftover from a huge filet from Shore Catch, simply poached and pureed with the boiled potato and some parsley. We made a slightly sweet tomato sauce from our canned tomatoes and added black olives and more parsley. We had enough dough and filling to make two batches.
We use an old metal ravioli tray of my grandmother’s, which along with the Kitchenaid pasta attacment makes short work of it.
We didn’t miss the meat. Or the ricotta, for that matter.
Posted by Donna on 02/22 at 07:06 PM
More from In Search of the Perfect Loaf
Sunday, February 15, 2015
Having already recommended Samuel Fromartz’s In Search of the Perfect Loaf, I will refer you to my earlier comments as to why. However, I can already identify two benefits from reading Fromartz. One, it has given me the confidence to experiment with recipes and tailor results. Two, should those experiments fail - or, more accurately, fail to meet expectations - I now have a better sense of why. Both applied in this instance.
The first time I made this loaf, Jim Lahey’s. There isn’t anything necessarily wrong with that; it’s just not my preference. This time, I felt confident enough in my baking to use a different temperature and cooking time, based on Lynne Rossetto Kasper’s Modena Mountain Bread. This involved not only a lower temperature, but also retaining steam in the oven. This variation was, unquestionably, a success.
Unfortunately, as you can see here, the crumb is anything but light and airy. It’s dense and chewy, which is fine, but that wasn’t what I was going for. What went wrong? Fromartz’s recipe calls for letting the dough rise in a pantry that’s roughly 55 degrees. Given the absurdly low temperatures last night, I am guessing our pantry was significantly lower than 55. However, that wasn’t the real mistake; the real mistake was not trusting my instincts when I pulled the dough out this morning. I was following the recipe exactly, but I should have known it needed a longer rise.
Having written that, I now realize a third benefit of reading ...The Perfect Loaf: rather than discouraged by this disappointment, I will simply try again.
Summer in a Freezer Bag
Saturday, January 31, 2015
Every summer my mother-in-law very generously visits one of the farmstands near their house and buys us about 10 pints of blueberries to freeze. The first time we did this, we carefully froze them in a single layer on a sheet pan lined with parchment before storing in a freezer bag. No more. Blueberries are waxy skinned enough they don’t freeze together at all, and I can reach into the bag and scoop out however many cups I need whenever I want to make muffins, pancakes or smoothies. The bag easily lasts us until the next blueberry season, although we might finish this year’s up much sooner after making Smitten Kitchen’s Blueberry Crumb Cake. We did adapt it a bit - using Daisy Flour’s Whole Wheat Pastry flour and maple sugar from Fair Food Farmstand - to justify our eating it for breakfast. The picture above is what’s left of our freezer stash for future cakes. I could say Smitten Kitchen’s lovely photos left no reason to take one of the cake itself, but frankly we ate it too quickly. So will you.
Posted by Donna on 01/31 at 05:16 PM
Perfect Winter Scallop Dish
Tuesday, January 27, 2015
We very nearly overload on scallops in the summer. Easily grilled, seared or as used for ceviche, they work beautifully with light summer cooking. I tended not to think of them as much in the winter before Shore Catch started offering locally caught seafood both at Headhouse Farmers’ Market and through Winter Harvest. This recipe might change that. As the name suggests, it is both Ina Garten’s and traditionally French, so it’s by no means light or summery. But it’s perfect for a winter’s night waiting for the snow to arrive, as we did last night. Not much snow, but with a creamy dish of mushrooms and scallops with a breadcrumb crust, we didn’t mind at all. We ate it with a butter lettuce salad from Winter Harvest and Galen Glen’s Gruner Veltliner - the entire meal as local as we’d have made in midsummer.
Posted by Donna on 01/27 at 04:52 PM
Mini Cornmeal Muffins with Jam Filling
Saturday, January 17, 2015
I blame my library card. Ever since the Free Library started offering free downloads from Zinio, I’ve had access to an unhealthy number of magazines full of pretty pictures of things I’d like to have - well, mostly to eat. Somewhere, probably in Saveur, I first saw ebelskivers - little round Danish pancakes made in a special pan, the use of which has been adapted about a thousand ways all over the internet. So here’s one more.
While I’m eager to try making proper ebelskivers, we weren’t really up for their light, sweet, almost pastry like consistency this soon after the holidays and one too many Christmas cookie breakfasts. So I made up a batter using Castle Valley Mill’s cornmeal, with Rineer Family Farm’s Mixed Berry Jam as a filling. The result was more like a tiny, jam filled cornmeal muffin. The cornmeal seems perfect for savory versions using crumbled sausage or cheese, and hopefully it goes without saying that they made the perfect breakfast to eat while reading magazines. Just try not to drop the jam on the IPad.
Mini Cornmeal Muffins with Jam Filling
1 1/4 cup cornmeal
2 tablespoons sugar (we used maple sugar)
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup milk
1 tablespoon melted butter
5 teaspoons jam
Mix the dry ingredients together and set aside. Whisk the wet ingredients together, then add the dry to the wet and stir until smooth. Heat ebelskiver pan on medium for about 5 minutes to be sure it is consistently hot, then add a tiny dollop of butter in each well and brush around. Drop one tablespoon batter into each well, add 1/2 teaspoon of jam, then another tablespoon batter for each well. Cook until you see the batter pulling away from the pan, then flip using chopsticks. (I found I didn’t even need to grab the chopsticks - I made sure the batter was coming away cleanly by skimming the edge of each well with the tip of a steak knife, then used the knife to flip the batter.) Cook for another 2 minutes or so, and serve warm.
Posted by Donna on 01/17 at 08:07 AM
Book Recommendation: Samuel Fromartz’s In Search of the Perfect Loaf
Saturday, January 10, 2015
If there is one aspect of cooking where I feel my results are not proportional to my efforts, it would be bread baking. It isn’t for lack of trying: I’ve worked my way through the Bread Baker’s Apprentice, Whole Grain Breads, the Metropolitan Bakery Cookbook, and My Bread to name just the bread-centric cookbooks I’ve tried. Too often, my loaves would be flavorless, overly dense, underfermented, and even undercooked.
Granted, I have been handicapping myself by both insisting on locally grown and milled wheat and on incorporating as much whole wheat flour into the bread as possible. Still, this is how I eat, and I want the bread I eat (and bake) to be reflective of that.
Therefore, when I opened Samuel Fromartz’s In Search of the Perfect Loaf, I was skeptical. I didn’t see how this book could succeed where so many others have failed. However, Fromartz did succeed with me - and brilliantly. I suspect the reason for this is that Fromartz approached everything from the vantage point of a home baker, translating the lessons he learned in professional bakeries to the home kitchen. Cookbooks typically follow the opposite trajectory. He discusses at length the variations in flour, temperature, and humidity that affect dough, ultimately concluding that the best baking is done by feel. Far more than a cookbook, Fromartz provides an appealing narrative of his evolving technique and growing knowledge, and I found myself reading the book in its entirety before even attempting a recipe.
My first success was a wild yeast starter made with whole wheat flour, honey, and water. Somehow, Fromartz’s method succeeded where so many others had failed. I used the resulting starter to make a version of Lahey’s no-knead bread, which had an excellent sourdough flavor.
So, on these brutally cold winter days when you are drawn to the warmth of the fire for reading or the warmth of an oven for baking, I’d recommend a copy of In Search of the Perfect Loaf to accompany you.
P.S. Samuel Fromartz also maintains the very cool Chews Wise Blog
Posted by Kevin on 01/10 at 06:19 PM