Learning from DiBruno’s Emilio Mignucci
Wednesday, April 13, 2016
As mentioned before, we were fortunate enough to attend a class on local cheeses at the Farm and Food Fest on Sunday. Emilio was very patient and informative as he explained different aspects of the cheesemaking process as well as his sensory experience tasting these cheeses. Below are my notes on the cheeses and the local wine I might enjoy with it. In keeping with the DiBruno Brothers theme of this post, I’ve adapted wine pairings suggestions from Tenaya Darlington’s House of Cheese. (Tenaya was also speaking at the Farm and Food Fest on Sunday, by the way.)
First up was Hummingbird from the Farm at Doe Run. This particular cheese is equal parts sheep and cow milk for part of the year. Similar to Robioloa in style, it was both creamy and earthy. This cheese would go well with a glass of Galen Glen Gewurtztraminer, the tropical fruit and floral nose should play nicely off this creamy cheese.
Next, was Willow, also from the Farm at Doe Run. This cheese is equal parts sheep, cow, and goat’s milk. The goat’s milk in this one imparted a greater tanginess. I immediately pictured eating this cheese with a nice, fresh summer salad, so I would pick a glass of Amalthea Rose (my favorite local rose last year).
The third cheese was already a favorite of mine, Birchrun Blue from Birchrun Hills Farm. Emilio told an interesting story of tasting Birchrun cheese years ago and though they were still refining their technique, it was immediately obvious to Emilio that they were working with quality milk. His description of this cheese was particularly lucid: unlike many blue cheeses, this does not overpower you with black pepper; there is an earthy, mushroom component, but also an herbal quality to it. Emilio explained it as feeling the “botanicals” on the sides of his tongue. While Darlington suggests a Sauternes for some blues, I would like to try it with Unionville Chardonnay.
This was followed by another favorite from Birchrun Hills Farm, Red Cat. Emilio used this cheese to explain the difficulties of rind development, by way of complimenting this one. Darlington suggests Pinot Noir or Burgundy, but I would be inclined to try either a Cabernet Franc from Pinnacle Ridge or a Nero D’avola from Turdo Vineyards.
The next two were complete revelations to me. I had never heard of either creamery, much less sampled their cheeses. Johny’s Clothbound Cheddar, from Alpine Heritage Creamery, was very different from other quality American cheddars. Texturally, it the crumbliness and crunch that I have never experienced in local cheddar. The flavor was equally impressive: nutty, but also with a complex sweetness that Emilio described alternately as butterscotch and tropical fruit. While this may sound like something of a contradiction, it was actually a description of the complex flavor of the cheese. Darlington suggests Bordeux for this, so why not a Bordeaux via South Jersey? One of Amalthea’s Europa series would do nicely.
Der Weichen, from Goot Essa, was a Camembert style cheese with a very earthy taste. Emilio explained how Goot Essa is moving towards a Coop model, purchasing milk from nearby, trusted growers while they refined their craft. While it may be overkill, I would love to pair this with Va La’s Mahogany, which is probably the earthiest local wine I know.
We finished the class with the Havilah from Cherry Grove Farm, another favorite. A lovely nutty flavor to this one, Emilio suggested that it would work very well as a grating cheese over pasta. This cheese I would reserve for my favorite local red: Va La’s Cedar.
Posted by Kevin on 04/13 at 06:13 PM
Fifth Annual Philly Farm and Food Fest
Sunday, April 10, 2016
It seems like every year we say that the Farm and Food Fest got bigger and better. This year it’s undeniable - the festival grew right out of its old location in one of the smaller spaces of the Pennsylvania Convention Center into a bigger hall. The new space easily accommodated everything the festival had to offer, so visitors didn’t have to leave the main exhibition space to attend classes and talks. We attended the Master Class on local cheeses with Emilio Mignucci of DiBruno Brothers - more on that in a post on Wednesday - and listened to Chef Charles Parker of Talula’s Garden discuss local greens with the help of Adrian Galbraith-Paul of Heritage Farm in West Philadelphia.
We were delighted to see another farm within the city limits, Mycopolitan Mushroom Company, present with some of their more unusual mushrooms for sale as well as a pickled mushroom mix. We took home a Pom Pom mushroom, which looks exactly like it sounds and will be cooked for dinner tonight according to their helpful preparation suggestions.
Cape May Sea Salt Company was there with a variety of their products including smoked salt, something they were still developing when we visited their salt house
The sheer number of local growers and producers was staggering, and the best part was that almost all of them are readily available in Philadelphia thanks to the likes of Winter Harvest, Lancaster Farm Cooperative, our many farmers’ markets and retail outlets dedicated to local food. Granted, we left with full shopping bags anyway, but who can resist a High Street loaf baked entirely with locally grown and milled grains?
And of course all the cheese.
Posted by Donna on 04/10 at 03:55 PM
In Defense of Flowers
Wednesday, April 06, 2016
You might wonder why flowers would ever need defending. When we first started eating locally and growing some of our own food in our community garden plot, we considered flowers a silly diversion. Lovely to look at in the neighbor’s plot or at the farmstand, but not at all what we were after. I’m glad to say we’ve come around. It started with the bouquets from Longview Flowers at the Headhouse Farmers’ Market - so much more beautiful than anything I’d seen at a traditional florist, and entirely local. Inspired to grow some ourselves, we planted a small peony bush in the corner of our plot that reliably rewards us with dozens of puffy pink blooms every year. Since then we’ve tucked in tulip and daffodil bulbs, grown chamomile to dry for tea, used marigolds to deter bugs and watched calendula thrive almost anywhere we scattered seeds and last long into fall. There’s no better evidence that growing flowers helps pollinators than watching bees buzz happily among your flowers. And in this time of year when we’ve planted favas and spinach a month ago that are still only an inch high, I can visit the garden….
... and pick a daffodil.
Posted by Donna on 04/06 at 03:44 PM
Philly Wine Week 2016
Sunday, April 03, 2016
Philadelphia Wine Week 2016 has officially begun. And the only thing that makes me happier than the proliferation of “natural” wines at this year’s offerings is the proliferation of local wines. Here’s what’s going in local wines:
- On Monday, Robert Burke of Karamoor Estate (Ft. Washington, PA) will be at Martha.
- On Wednesday, Panorama is hosting a “Blind Challenge” of Pennsylvania wines. Included will be one my personal favorites: Galen Glen. Also, Pinot Boutique is hosting a local wine, cheese, chocolate, and (why not?) bacon jams tasting. Heritage will have Tom Sharko of Alba Vineyard, Kevin Robinson of Karamoor Estate, and Richard Heritage of Heritage Vineyards. However, the big local wine event of the night (and week, really) is a wine dinner with Anthony Vietri of Va La Vineyards at Martha. It was already sold out when I called last week, but I have my fingers crossed for a cancellation or two.
- On Thursday, Martha is again hosting a Meet the Winemaker event, this time with Rich Heritage and Sean Comninos of Heritage Vineyards.
- On Friday, Pino Boutique is hosting a Local vs. Non-Local Wine Event.
- On Saturday, Jet Wine Bar is hosting an interesting combination of ornithology and enology. Pennsylvania Birds and Wine is from 3 to 5.
- On Sunday April 10th, Long Island’s Wolffer Estate will be featured in a wine dinner at Fork. Wolffer is one of the finest wineries in an area packed with them. If you have any interest in Long Island wine, this one is not to be missed.
- Finally, Paris Wine Bar, which features Pennsylvania wines, is running special events all week.
For additional information, reservations, and tickets, go to Philadelphia Wine Week.
Posted by Kevin on 04/03 at 12:16 PM
Pig School at Wyebrook
Friday, March 25, 2016
Having long considered Wyebrook’s meat to be some of the best in the Philadelphia area, not to mention the gorgeous setting of its market and restaurant, I wasn’t sure what more Wyebrook could do to impress me. So, while I attended the pig butchering class on Saturday, March 19th with enthusiasm, I did so only hoping it would make me a (slightly) better cook. Yes, it did that (I think), but I also came away with three more reasons to love Wyebrook.
First, at the outset of the class, owner Dean Carlson explained the farming practices. I was particularly impressed with the pasturing of their pigs and their varied diet. While the animals are fed, they are permitting to roam a great deal of the property and forage for additional food. By the time the pigs are slaughtered, they are more mature and significantly larger than the “industry standard.” These practices account for the outstanding quality of their pork.
Second, head butcher Alexi Alejandro was a gracious teacher. As he systematically butchered a side of pork (literally, one half of a pig), he explained each of the cuts as well as cooking techniques and the various terms. One of the simplest but most helpful things he emphasized was the optimal internal temperature for cooking pork (145 degrees plus resting time). This might actually prevent me from overcooking pork in the future…maybe.
Third, at the conclusion of the class was a dinner featuring the various cuts of pork. Every dish was outstanding - handmade rigatoni with pork ragu, pork pate, sausages, pork belly, and loin. I don’t know if this is a direct consequence of bringing Russet’s chef/owner Andrew Wood onboard as Executive Chef, but I would guess so. The kitchen paid as much attention to our dinner as Alexi paid to us, his students.
Wyebrook offers this and other classes (including one on charcuterie, which I am eager to attend) throughout the year. Look for announcements via their mailing list or on their website.
Posted by Kevin on 03/25 at 06:15 PM
Some Green Amid The Gray
Sunday, March 13, 2016
Long after the allure of simmered stews, mashed root vegetables, and gratins has worn thin, there are still weeks (months?) to go before the farmers’ markets open. In the meantime, much of the greens we eat are either hydroponic bibb lettuce or microgreens. This is not a complaint about either; I just want a bit more variety. For the past few weeks we’ve been enjoying arugula from the Honey Brook Harvest Collective, which we get through Philly Foodworks. Not content with just another green for salads, I decided to make it into pesto. After all, is there any better reminder of summer?
The following is based on a recipe found in Pasta, a cookbook I strongly recommend if you are interested in refining your pasta dishes. The recipes are sequenced in order of difficulty, and in every recipe it stresses the importance of balance and the marriage of shape to pasta sauce (something I am only now learning to appreciate). Originally, the recipe called for both walnuts and pine nuts, but in keeping this as local as possible, I used only walnuts. Further, I used Valley Shepherd Creamery’s Hunterdon for the cheese. Last, I used Vesper Brothers Whole Wheat Penne.
Arugula Pesto and Whole Wheat Pasta
3 oz. walnuts
2 bunches (approximately 4 oz.) arugula, washed and dried
1 small garlic clove
2/3 cup olive oil
2 oz. grated Valley Shepherd Hunterdon
1 lb. whole wheat penne
6-8 sun-dried tomatoes, cut into thin strips
Scatter the walnuts on a baking sheet and toast them in a 300 degree oven for ten minutes. After the walnuts have cooled, place them and the garlic, arugula, and olive oil in a food processor and process until smooth and pour into a large mixing bowl. Stir in the cheese until well combined and allow to sit for at least 1 hour.
Cook the pasta according to the package directions. Drain and reserve 1 cup of the cooking water. Add the pasta to the pesto and stir to combine, use some of the pasta to thin the pesto if necessary to evenly coat the pasta. Top with the sun-dried tomatoes.
A Note About The Olive Oil: I find the amount of olive oil in a pesto to be extremely subjective, and it really is a matter of preference. To be honest, I don’t really measure it out. I simply add it to the food processor until I have just the creamy consistency I want and then I immediately stop. A pesto that leaves some oil pooled at the bottom of the pasta dish is, to me, too oily.
The Home Stretch
Wednesday, March 02, 2016
As we begin the last month or two before spring vegetables start appearing and the seasonal farmers’ markets begin again, it helps to remember the diversity of winter produce still available through local buying clubs. Last night’s dinner of roasted beets and cauliflower mixed with parsley, Philly Bread’s Porridge Loaf and Meadowset Farms’ Last Straw sheep’s milk cheese came entirely from Philly Foodworks and Winter Harvest.
Posted by Donna on 03/02 at 08:18 PM
Not Your Mother’s Frozen Vegetables
Sunday, February 28, 2016
While we are incredibly lucky to have so many options for local produce in midwinter, it can get a bit depressing and monotonous right around this time of year. Enter locally frozen foods. Both Winter Harvest and Philly Foodworks regularly carry a selection of locally grown and frozen fruits and vegetables for those of us missing the variety of summer. In the dish above, we sauteed some frozen peppers as a base for arepas with frozen corn, both from Philly Foodworks. A few nights later, a bag of frozen peas from Winter Harvest made a perfect mushy pea side dish for grilled Hillacres Pride Kielbasa. Combine these options with the many vegetables still available fresh, and we all might just make it to spring.
Another Happy Accident
Wednesday, February 10, 2016
The giant wheel of brie above is what remains of the third time we’ve accidentally ordered more than we’d intended from Winter Harvest. The first time brought us a 5 pound tub of Pequea Valley yogurt, the second a 20 pound bag of Daisy Flour. It took some work and planning, but we used every bit of both of them, and learned some new recipes in the process. The Buttercup Brie from Cherry Grove Farm shouldn’t require much work to polish off. It’s rich and creamy with a pleasantly edible rind that made a perfect lunch with pickles and crackers and a lovely dessert with some fig jam. Bob Pierson of Farm To City tells us it can be frozen, but I don’t think it will last that long.
A Midwinter’s Day in the Lehigh Valley
Sunday, February 07, 2016
Between the melting mounds of old, dirty snow and the perpetual construction in the neighborhood, we had a strong urge to get out of the city yesterday. So, we made a return trip to of our favorite local wineries: Pinnacle Ridge and Galen Glen, both in the Lehigh Valley. As Craig Laban noted in his 2014 article, Lehigh Valley white wines are remarkable, but Pinot Noir is also served well by the cooler climate. On this trip, however, we weren’t so much sampling recent vintages as a stocking our wine cellar. (Please note that by “wine cellar,” I simply mean a cleared out space space on the floor and shelves of our basement pantry, which remains a fairly steady temperature year-round.) Tasting the wines with that specific intent altered the experience. Rather than deciding which wines I liked best, I was deciding which wines I liked that were also most versatile.
From Pinnacle Ridge, we brought back the Cabernet Franc and Chardonnay. The Cabernet Franc has a nice, light mouthfeel and herbal, peppery taste that is slightly tannic. While the tannins could soften over time, I don’t think it will be hanging around that long. Unusual for us, we also picked up two bottles of the Chardonnay - the oaked one, mind you, and not the one fermented in stainless steel tanks. Over the winter, I found myself wanting a glass of oaked Chardonnay along with roasted whitefish or chicken. It may be the presence of butter in those dishes, or my own association of butter and oaked Chardonnay, but eating them without the wine was feeling incomplete.
From Galen Glen, we brought home a full case, eight bottles of which are the Stone Cellar Gruner Veltliner. I’ve written about this wine on several occasions before, so there isn’t much new that I can say about it. It’s delicious, fragrant, and beautifully balanced, and I can’t imagine it not improving any food it’s paired with. It’s also complex enough that I can imagine drinking eight bottles without tiring of it. We also brought home two bottles of the Stone Cellar Gewurztraminer and two of the Stone Cellar Riesling. The Gewurztraminer has a heavily floral nose and tastes of tropical fruit. I imagine pairing it with curries or spicy food quite easily. The Riesling is bracingly acidic, and it somehow manages to evoke most of the citrus fruits in a single glass. If I could ever convince the relatives to come here for Thanksgiving, this would be the wine I would serve, but this wine is so refreshing, it will work with just about anything.
Garden Visit: Longwood Gardens
Wednesday, February 03, 2016
Last Saturday, as the snow in town grew increasingly dirty and slushy, we decided to take a drive out to visit Longwood Gardens. This time of year the garden features a huge orchid display in their greenhouses, but we skipped all that, as we’ve done in visits in every season, and headed straight for the Meadow Garden. Opened in June 2014, the Meadow Garden covers 86 acres with native plants, trails and scenic vistas. It was a virtual winter wonderland, still covered in snow and bordered by a small frozen lake and wetlands. In previous visits, we’ve seen a succession of native blooms, vibrant fall leaves and evidence of attention to pollinators and native bird habitat everywhere. In a garden known for its formality and pageantry, the Meadow Garden is an unexpectedly beautiful change of course.
For those of you who, like us, still need a little bit of green around this time of year, the garden shop had an impressive stock of succulents and small indoor plants grown by Gary’s Specialty Plants in nearby Lancaster County. Each one was labelled with light and moisture requirements, so I’m hoping these little guys have a better shot than my previous attempts at succulent planting.
Cape May Sea Salt Available in Philly
Sunday, January 31, 2016
A heads up for those readers who had asked where to find Cape May Sea Salt here in Philly - both Green Aisle Grocery and Ippolito’s Seafood now carry it. Green Aisle, of course, is full of local and regional goodness, but it was also terrific to see it in a place like Ippolito’s that doesn’t focus exclusively on locality.
Posted by Donna on 01/31 at 02:21 PM
When There’s Fire, There Should Be Smoke
Monday, January 11, 2016
Now that the weather finally resembles winter, I smell fires going in fireplaces nearly every night. I, in turn, light our fireplace every chance I get, and settle onto the couch with something comforting and steaming. It’s safe to say that if I am in the house, I am in front of the fireplace.
It is, perhaps, all of that time around a fire that makes me crave smokiness in my food. Coupling that with a strong desire to ease off of meat after the holidays, I opted for this frittata from Yotam Ottolenghi as breakfast one recent morning.
In this case, the smokiness comes from the scamorza and paprika. Be sure to sufficiently brown the cauliflower before adding the egg mixture; it makes all the difference in the flavor. Neither should you eliminate the chives if you can help it; they provide a nice contrast both in taste and appearance. It was easy to make with local ingredients: I substituted smoked gouda for the scamorza and cheddar and yogurt for the creme fraiche. Since this was only for the two of us, I cut everything in half (but used four smallish eggs) and split everything between two small cast-iron skillets. Consequently, I cut the cooking time in the oven to approximately six minutes.
Eat This Baby For Breakfast
Wednesday, January 06, 2016
I’m almost two years late to the Dutch Baby Craze, and I have no idea why I waited so long to try one after seeing these skillet size pancakes puffing up all over food blogs and in the NYT Food section. They couldn’t be easier to make, and the popover effect both looks cool and creates lovely browned edges and pools of melted butter. I followed this recipe from The Kitchn, swapping out the all purpose flour with whole wheat from Daisy Organic Flours. It was still light and wonderfully chewy - I wouldn’t have known it was whole wheat flour if I hadn’t made it myself.
Locally Made Traditional Bangers
Sunday, January 03, 2016
We found Stryker Farm’s Irish Style Bangers at the Fair Food Farmstand, and made them here as God intended them - with mashed potatoes and onion gravy, along with the remaining bottles of Troeg’s Mad Elf and Victory Winter Cheers left over from a recent holiday party. It was a very Happy New Year.
Posted by Donna on 01/03 at 03:23 PM