Kensington’s Greensgrow in the Inquirer

Friday, April 17, 2009

Co-founder Mary Seton Corboy at Greensgrow Farm in Kensington. (April Saul / Inquirer)

Friends are used to me going on and on about Greensgrow Farm, in the Kensington neighborhood of Philadelphia, like I invented the place. I love it that much. You might, too, after you read today’s piece by Ginny Smith in the Inquirer.

“Traceability”: Friend or Foe to Locavores?

Monday, March 30, 2009

There’s an article in today’s NY Times that leaves me with ambiguous feelings. The concept is “Traceability” and it’s meant to, as the name suggests, give consumers the ability to “trace” their food to it’s producer. What leaves me with a sour taste is that when I quickly perused the Find The Farmer site, I saw what I had feared was coming — namely, that Big Business would attempt to co-opt some of the finer points of the Buy Local movement.

The article states that the “Stone-Buhr flour company, a 100-year-old brand based in San Francisco, is giving the buy-local food movement its latest upgrade.” (My emphasis). The internet is a wonderful tool and I push it whole-heartedly on local farmers. But how is this “buy local”? The Find The Farmer website has all the trimmings of a gosh-golly earnest site. But on closer inspection, you see the bread trail of a much larger marketing effort. A look at the footer of the site reveals the copyright is held by JOG Distribution. Google that name and you see that they recently acquired “the venerable Stone-Buhr Flour brand...” (My emphasis). Notice that they say “brand”. Not “company”. Not “product”. “Brand”. That’s telling because that states that for these companies, it’s the name of the product and all that name conjures up in the consumers mind. That’s what they are paying for. But here’s the best part: JOG didn’t purchase it from the original owners of Stone-Buhr. Read the article and you’ll see that they purchased the “brand” in 2002 from Unilever/Bestfoods!

This is not mom-and-pop farmers organizing to let consumers know where their food comes from. This is marketing departments realizing that there is a.) a Trend (“Buy Local”) and b.) problems with the public’s perception of food safety. They aren’t really changing the way they do business, they’re simply changing the appearance by piggy-backing on a genuine movement. This is why marketing is important to small scale farmer’s and local business people. These are the tools that your fearsome competition welds.

Think of it like this: people are trusting. That’s a good thing. So when they see a NY Times article; when they see an earnest-looking website; when they see smiling pictures of commodity farmers and their families; when the sites state explicitly things like “Direct Seeding” to imply that their entire farming methods are more friendly (Direct Seeding seems innocuous enough, but it’s prominently name-dropped as a way to intimate that the farm is environmentally sound); when they see all of this, they think “Oh, in addition to the Farmer’s Market, I’ll shop online. Their prices may be better, maybe I’ll forgo the Market this week…”  Or, perhaps, “I really want to connect with how my food is produced, I’ll just go to this website…” It begins to chip away at your business, whether it’s what you currently have or any potential business that’s down the line.

I need to stress that being able to trace your food is a good thing. Not only does it make producers and companies more accountable, but it also appears to pave the way for single-producer products. If there’s traceablilty, then that means you can’t mix several suppliers in a huge grain bin. And that’s good for people. What I don’t think is good is the sneaky way that businesses are hinting that they, too, are “local” (or have any of the ideals of the people who would Buy Local) when it’s still business as usual. They see the desire in the public’s mind and they act in the most cost-effective way. And that is by keeping the mechanism’s in place but using marketing and promotional tools to control the “message”.

People are ready for local, sustainable foods. If they weren’t, there wouldn’t be interest in co-opting the terms and the ideals, by large corporations. If there ever was a time to invest in keeping your message relevant and making the case for the real differences, now is the time. It really is a sound investment because the desire for information is there.

Jersey Fresh Canned Tomatoes

Sunday, March 29, 2009

Last summer went by in a blur, and the bulk of my plans to can and preserve tomatoes to carry me through the winter months fell by the wayside. I did manage to freeze some roasted tomatoes, but every time I want to make a batch of pasta sauce or add some color and zing to a pot of soup, I’d have to settle for a can of tomatoes of unknown origin (I’m not a strict locavore, I do like to eat things grown in my general region as much as is reasonable).

Because of this, I was delighted to discover these Jersey Fresh canned tomatoes at the Fair Food Farmstand on Saturday. Grow and canned locally, they have really great color, flavor and are a wonderful resource for those of us who didn’t quite get around their canning projects during the last tomato season.

At $3 a can, they aren’t a super bargain, but are certainly comparable to the fancy San Marzano tomatoes sold at gourmet markets.

The Best Marketing Is Still Free

Thursday, March 12, 2009

These are tough times. Small businesses (and yes — farms should be considered a small business) need to cut expenses. Usually the first place they do is in marketing, thinking that is the most expendable. While that should be up for debate, it simply is the reality. However, the very best marketing that anyone can do is completely free — smile. Yep, it’s that simple. One of the most overlooked aspects of marketing that many small businesses/farmers (from here on out, I’ll refer to you as SBF, for Small Business Farmer) is customer service. And that is a darn shame, because this is the one thing that is not only free, it’s the best marketing tool available, hands down as well as being the very reason of why you have customers in the first place.

The Buy Local movement is gaining momentum. Every news headline about food contamination or Frankenfoods make more and more people ask “is there another way?” They want to KNOW where their food is coming from and it inevitably brings them to Michael Pollan, Nina Planck or one of the many other authors who’ve written books speaking about the virtues of eating locally and knowing the person that raises your food. And a common thread in all of these books is an idyllic vision of people having casual conversations with “their” farmer at the weekly Farmer’s Markets. It speaks to our most desperate desire in this wacky food-world: to connect as well as be part of a community. Whether you like it or not, that’s the bill of goods we “locavore” people have been sold on. And don’t just blame the authors: farmers have been touting the “connection” angle for some time. So, in people’s minds, that’s what they expect. And time and again, I do see it delivered, albeit unbalanced. Let me offer 2 of the bad examples.

The first example is for the local small business. My husband and I  purchased environmentally sound products to refinish our floors from a local store. We spoke with them at length about it. We were assured of the quality. Right away, there was a long list of problems: wrong order, person left at the desk who didn’t know anything about any of the products. Then, about 6 months after the floors were re-finished, they started to peel like tape. Called the store, was assured by the manager that the owner would call. Never did. This is where things go south: never, I repeat NEVER leave a customer in the lurch. Even if you cannot refund, not returning a call turns what could be a disgruntled customer into the worst possible thing for your SBF: someone who evangelizes against your company. And it doesn’t have to be this way. Most people who are drawn to SBF can take some punches and our first reaction is to think about things from the business/farmer’s perspective. So take heart that most of your customers give you more rope than they would, say, Wal-Mart. But don’t take this for granted. Be up-front and honest about what you’re selling. And, if it still doesn’t work out, pick up the phone and call. No matter how mad they are, the fact that you called will make a difference. Be nice, be empathetic. Chances are, if you make a good case, they will eventually come back. Because, unlike big box stores, you are in business to make a difference. And your customers share that motivation. 

The next example is a farmer. My husband goes every week (when in season) to the Farmer’s Market at Rittenhouse and buys himself peaches. During a particularly humid week, all the peaches went rotten within 2 days. Taking a cue from Michael Pollan, he asked what he could have done to prevent that. The assistant asked the vendor and he replied “Impossible. He bought them two weeks ago.” When my husband went to speak, the vendor waved his hand and said to his assistant “just give him some.” The vendor never raised his head to look at the man asking about the peaches. This should go without saying: never treat a return customer as if he is trying to scam you. KNOW your return customers, even if you hardly say two words to them. This is vitally important. It’s so simple, yet I see time and time again, farmers ignore this because of the pressure in the market.

Yes, it is difficult to be a SBF, but it’s so important that you understand that your customer’s know this as well and they are understanding. We know that it’s just you. You wake at the break of dawn, harvest, then rush to market. The markets are busy, people clamoring for your attention. We know and we understand. But you cannot let it get the best of you. Think of it like this: most of you can’t afford a website (or, if you can, it’s far less full-featured than, say Acme or Home Depot); most do not run ads; and most certainly have no more than 1 location (or 1 movable location in the markets). When faced with corporate competition, the odds are not in your favor. So you need to understand why people come to you: your great product and your fantastic service. In both of my examples, these SBF failed. 

When people shop locally, they are doing more than spending money. They are making a conscientious purchase. They aren’t just buying apples, they are saying something about the apples they are purchasing as well as against the stores where they are not. As an SBF, you may be at a large-scale marketing disadvantage, but you should have the customer service angle tied up in a bow. See this for what it is: the very best marketing that money can (but doesn’t!) buy. Good customer service makes customers faithful; they evangelize your product (and that still is the best advertising that money can buy); they purchase more; and they are more forgiving when those few instances of stress pop up. Still not convinced? Guess who is one of the best in customer service for large stores? Whole Foods. Who are you in direct competition against? Whole Foods. And for all of you SBF out there who do pay attention to customer service, your customers notice and appreciate. Keep up the great work! Every new customer you get is a testament to your smart investment.

I’d like to give a shout out to those SBF that go above and beyond in customer service (none have requested this, none know that I am doing this. Heck, I don’t even personally KNOW most of them! But good deeds should be rewarded): Greensgrow; Tom (formerly of Greensgrow, now raising flowers as Longview, sold at Headhouse); the ladies at Birchrun Hills; Hendricks Dairy; Meadow Run; Culton Organics; Wild Flour Bakery. I know that I am forgetting so many more and that’s a great thing because so many SBF are fantastic! Keep up the great work!

Art in the Age of Mechanical Reproduction

Tuesday, March 03, 2009

There is very little going on in Old City for those of us who are interested in supporting local farmers.  It seems like there are farmers markets and shops that specialize in locally grown/made ingredients in just about every other neighborhood in and around Philadelphia - except Old City (or maybe there’s some secret underground stuff that I just don’t know about).  Art in the Age of Mechanical Reproduction is doing their part to change that - they sell preserves and sauces made by Greensgrow Farm, and they will serve as a pick up site for the Community Supported Agriculture program at Lancaster Farm Fresh.

If you know about Art in the Age, it shouldn’t surprise you that they are at the forefront of supporting local farmers in Old City.  The store exists to support local artisans and the DIY movement.  Walk around the shop and you’ll find house-made stationery and tees, small batch fragrances, and even Mennonite quilts.  The folks behind Art in the Age have also found themselves square in the middle of an initiative to convince city government to overturn the ban on private citizens keeping chickens.

Serving as a pick up site for Lancaster Farm Fresh is their latest effort to support local farmers.  The deadline for a discounted rate passed a day or two ago, but you can still purchase a seasonal share for $700 until April 15.  If you’re interested, call Art in the Age or get in touch with the folks at Lancaster Farm Fresh.

Art in the Age of Mechanical Reproduction
116 N. Third Street
Philadelphia, PA 19106
(215) 922-2600

Glazed Seitan and Cabbage Stir-Fry

Saturday, February 28, 2009

In my neighborhood, eating fresh and local November through March is a little rough.  This time of year, if I want anything fresh, I have to head 45 minutes south (Reading Terminal Market), north (Allentown Farmers Market) or west (Phoenixville Farmers’ Market).  Anything that is, except cabbage. 

I found a collection of monstrous cabbage heads Bill Seulke’s Produce stand in the Q-Mart today and just couldn’t pass them up.  The one we picked up weighed in at almost eight pounds, and at 33-cents a pound, cost a mere $2.50.  I combined it with a tub of Ray’s Seitan and frozen peppers from my Blooming Glen Farm CSA share for a quick, yummy dinner

Glazed Seitan and Cabbage Stir-Fry
(modified from Vegetarian Times)
Serves 6

Glazed Seitan
3 Tbs. maple syrup
3 Tbs. orange juice
1 Tbs. low-sodium soy sauce
1 Tbs. toasted sesame oil
1 12-oz. pkg. seitan, chopped

Stir-Fry
3/4 cup almonds (halved, whole, slivered, whatever)
1 Tbs. plus 1 tsp. sesame oil
1 1/2 lbs. shredded cabbage (about 4 cups)
3 bell peppers, cut into strips (about 2 cups)
2 Tbs. minced ginger
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes (or to taste)
9 Tbs. orange juice
1 1/4 Tbs. arrowroot powder

To make Glazed Seitan:
Combine syrup, juice and soy sauce in small bowl.
Heat oil in nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add seitan, and stir-fry 4 minutes, or until golden. Add maple syrup mixture, and simmer 3 minutes, or until seitan is coated with glaze. Transfer to bowl. Wipe out skillet.

To make Stir-Fry:
Toast almonds in dry skillet over medium-high heat 3 minutes, or until fragrant. Transfer to bowl. Heat 1 Tbs. sesame oil in skillet over medium-high heat. Add cabbage, 2 Tbs. water and cover, until just tender, about 5 minutes. Add bell pepper and stir-fry 2 minutes.
Move vegetables to sides of skillet, and pour remaining 1 tsp. oil in center. Add ginger, garlic and red pepper flakes, and stir-fry 1 minute. Stir in 2 Tbs. water, seitan and almonds. Cover, and cook 2 minutes, or until veggies are tender.
Combine orange juice and arrowroot powder. Stir into vegetable mixture. Bring to a simmer, then remove from heat, and serve.

I served the stir-fry over soba noodles that I covered with a mixture of orange juice, sesame oil and arrowroot, though just about any grain or noodle would work great. While we ate, my boyfriend remarked that chunks of grilled pineapple would make a nice addition, which got us daydreaming about summertime and the gobs of fresh fruits and veggies awaiting us…  amazing how a tiny splash of light, crisp citrus on a pile of fresh, local ingredients can brighten up a murky February day, eh?

Phoenixville Winter Farmers’ Market

Friday, February 27, 2009

Sorry my posts have been light this month - we’re remodeling our family room, which is only consuming all of my time!  However, I couldn’t pass up the chance to talk about the farmers’ market.

The Farmers’ Market in Phoenixville has a (roughly) bi-weekly winter market from December through April (it’s weekly from May to November).  Since it’s winter, there’s not an overabundance of veggies - but you can find storage veggies like carrots, potatoes, and cabbage as well as a few greens (spinach, arugula, and endive). There will be two veggie sellers at the market this weekend! There’s also plenty of meat from chickens, turkeys, pigs, sheep, buffalo, and cows - and eggs, cheese, honey and baked goods. Plus you can get your hands on the Blue Sue fudge that Nicole blogged about last week. Some of the producers have pre-orders, and many also have first-come first-serve items as well. The newsletter has the details. Between the winter market and what we’ve stored from our CSA we’ve hardly had to buy any veggies from the supermarket at all this winter.

The picture was taken at the last winter market - it was cold! Tomorrow promises to be much nicer - the market is open from 10am - 11am at the corner of Bridge and Taylor streets in Phoenixville. For more info check out the website.